I've been experimenting with various skin actives so much so that all I had to do was to open my two fridges and see what ingredients were there available. Then I had an interesting recipe on my mind already.....
Water* 25.0% Polypodium leucotomos 5.0% Soy Lecithin 7.0% Sclerotium Gum 0.5% Optiphen 0.5% Water 10.0% NaOH 0.39% Chrysin 2.0% Almond Oil 23.0% Idebenone 0.50% Alpha lipoic acid 2.0% ZnO 25.0%
*Extra water 10.0% was added afterwards.
I haven't used Idebenone and ALA for a while, so I thought it was a good idea to use them before they reach expiration dates whenever that would be.
Polypodium leucotomos is a charisma in the sunscreen world. It's an effective sun protectant not only topically but also orally (true!). I bought some from skinactives.com quite a while ago (I don't even remember what was on mind when I ordered it.....).
I had to use Chrysin because I hadn't ever used it before and I was curious. After all, it's UV protective anyway.....
The oil phase was nicely done until I added 25% ZnO. All of a sudden, it looked like white powders but none else in the big beaker. I tried to stir, but the stick wouldn't even move. Not a good sign.
Chrysin, fluorescent yellow powder, reminded me of berberine, which I played with recently for my antioxidant serum. I kept stirring and stirring, with chunks of chrysin still intact. I don't know what got into me. I added more NaOH. To my surprise, all of a sudden, the solution became solid. I got this yellow rocks in the small beaker. I sensed something was terribly wrong. So I added more water. And I soaked in hot water, as well. It took me about 30min, but finally, I came up with fluorescent yellow solution of chrysin. Whewww.
If I were asked to come up with two nightmare ingredients, I would definitely nominate chitosan and this one, polypodium leucotomos. It sucks up water and becomes like gel. Since I added SG and lecithin at this point (which was never a problem for any other serums I created), now, it became like thick and black hair gel. So, I had to add extra 10% water here to rescue.
I somehow mixed these three phases together. I added some citric acid to neutralize NaOH. Thanks to my powerful blender, I got something with a consistency of thick sunscreen. But the main issue was the color. The black of Polypodium leucotomos was soften by the fluorescent yellow of Chrysin, and this sunscreen looked like....... cafe au lait-colored makeup foundation, for its color and consistency.
Well, now I'm pretty much ready to give up on my sunscreen project. I wasted enough ZnO. Meanwhile, I'll continue using Pratima......