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Sunscreen a Skin Essential 25% ZnO SS

62K views 436 replies 42 participants last post by  pac 
#1 ·
Sunscreen a Skin Essential 25% ZnO SS

Patience is required for this particular recipe and a mini blender, or it will not work out.

Ingredients:

1. Hemp oil 27.0 grams
2. Sea Emollient 27.0 grams
3. H20 18.0 grams
4. Vit E 1.8 grams
5. Hyaluronic acid 1% serum 6.3 grams
6. Polysorbate 80 9.0 grams
7. Pomegranate extract ~ 0.9 but less is better to start..
8. ZnO ~ 100nm particle 22.5 grams

Blender
Beakers X 3 [ or bowls or whatever works for you ]
The measurements are not forgiving....unless you are lowering your ZnO content, which is not recommended for obvious reasons.

1. Oil + polysorbate 80 + Vit E = Mix well.
2. Sea Emollient + HA= Mix well, very very well....or...will do funny things.
3. ZnO + Pomegranate extract + H20 = Mix beyond well, and don't stop, it may appear to be mixed...but is not...patience...keep mixing.
4. Then...slowly pour #1 into #2, while mixing at the same time with the beater...hand stirring will not work. Beat for quite a while, make sure to incorporate all....then, pour #2 back into #1 and beat again for a long spell. This will be very thick and creamy already....don't trust it. Keep beating it. Till it is all creamy and smooth...could be a while.
5. Scrape the edges thoroughly of beaker #2 as a great deal will be hanging on the sides.
6. Before you beat #3 into the SE + Oil mixture...beat#3 the ZnO H20 again really well....then...slowly incorporate the ZnO paste into what is now beaker #1. May have to use a scraper to get the ZnO into the beaker...keep beating.
7. You should have a creamy off white SS at this point. If you feel the burning urge to add GSE or EO's...now's the time. Sea emollient already has a preservative, so it is a bit of overkill...your call.

The SS is almost a gel like consistency...but not quite, goes on easily, but spreads quickly as it soaks in very fast. Dries matte.

Done.

Sterilize everything you use first...keep fingers out of the mix.

You can get fancy with your extracts for color enhancement...much less than you think you might need.

Merry Christmas
 
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#4 ·
Thanks so much for this recipe. I know you mentioned it on the sunscreen thread.....will be trying it once my DIY skills are up to par with some of the other folks here.
Love your very detailed instructions too!
 
#5 ·
Thank you QTPie4U34.

It's not rocket science. The science as far as I am concerned is in it's efficacy. Dull boring ZnO. The formula instructions are only good if a like result can be reproduced by any one else following the protocol.

If you have SKB on hand...it can be used in place of Sea emollient, and I would suggest that for oilier skin types...but it's really not necessary. Aloe Vera may or may not be subbed in...you would have to try that one. I am too enamored with my ocean extracts to experiment, although that is what DeVita uses. My recipe is basically a knock off DeVita minus the crap oils and fillers. *n.b. NCN SKB won't work. Neither will the SA's. BA's will work perfectly fine.

The pomegranate extract is NOT a must...it's in there for *tint* at this point, nothing more. You could throw in 10 different extracts if you wanted...but the color might be off a tad...way less than 1% will throw off the tint. So be wary of that. If you were to use Co Q 10 or Idebenone....it would be, not good. Grapeseed extract....careful there too. Goes purple...

However, you can keep about 1 ml off to the side with a color mix in H20 and add it near the end...you have a + 5% ZnO safety factor built in. BUT.....it's tricky and time consuming to incorporate at that point.


It is not greasy nor sticky, put it on Fast. It stays put. If you are sweating...you WILL see the zinc..no two ways around that.

It must be mixed well in all its phases, and when mixing phases. Pour back and forth a couple times to get it thoroughly incorporated...patience...the end product is very nice. IMHO.

In the picture, I put two coats of the SS on my hand toward my fingers, the dollop near the wrist is the color going on, and my natural skin tone.

Sunscreen is more important than all the extracts and anti ox's we put on after the fact to improve skin tone and prevent aging.

I can't wear chemical SS without my skin stinging and later my eyes going blood red and burning. I have neither of those problems with my own SS. Added benefit....my skin remains super clear of acne and this washes off easily with water and a cloth or emulsified oil cleanser.

if you do this:

1. Hemp oil 27.0 grams <-- borage = nice for me too.
2. Sea Emollient 27.0 grams<-- can sub SKB, or Aloe
3. H20 18.0 grams
4. Vit E 1.8 grams
5. H20 6.3 grams <--- scratch the HA 1%...you reduce your mixing time and get a much runnier SS
6. Polysorbate 80 9.0 grams <-- do not sub 80 for 20....it will separate and do funny things.
7. Pomegranate extract ~ 0.9 but less is better to start..
8. ZnO ~ 100nm particle 22.5 grams
9. ~ 0.5 ml GSE and EO's. [ right now, Neroli...just because...] Zinc doesn't generally support the growth of bugs.

It's close to a good hour + of mixing and blending....but the end product...nice.

This recipe is NOT tested for SPF, it is based on the active ingredients of other popular SS's available and their active ingredient Zn0, pretty much anything ZnO 20% and up gets an SPF rating of 30....the oils and what not in their creations have no SPF rating, except for the MVO with Red raspberry seed oil, however, that is so far down the list and mixed with so many others, I can pretty much guarantee that it's useless at that point.

It's easy to make, just takes patience and time. If impatient....it will not be lovely.

Happy blending.
 
#8 ·
WHAT??!! An hour of mixing?? Looks like I will need to get hired help for this project-
Dragon what do you use to mix this with?

Other than mixing for an hour it looks like a great recipe!

Thanks for sharing-
 
#9 ·
I use a teeny mini blender.

That recipe only makes ~ 90mls. However....I killed my blender making it

*sigh*...I had 2 spare. So now, I have an extra beater dingie


Decided....I'd go 'hi tech'....


It works very well....the recipe makes a very very nice SS. BUT....it is oh so easy to screw it up. The blending.
If you have not blended properly....you will know it. You can still use it....but....little teeny lumps of ZnO will greet you.


OR....little bits of SKB or emollient will find each other and glom together in complete bliss. So mix well...very very well. SKB is worse for that than sea emollient.

TIME and PATIENCE...if not....you will have a flop on your hands, if patient...you will have a very lovely, cheap to make and tailor to your preferences, Sun Screen. And....it will have a higher than 'allowed' ZnO content.
 
#11 ·
I have a tiny hand blender(more like a milk frother) from Makingcosmetics........think it would work?? Or do I need something more heavy duty??

I have several hand mixers that I use for baking and such, but I like to keep my DIY gadgets seperate from my ******* gadgets-
 
#12 ·
That's basically what mine is. Little cappuccino dealie...cute. Just be warned....it gets thick and hard to beat it...or mine has trouble with it at any rate.

Remember the Castor oil SKB poly 80 recipe blooper?....like that...but not quite as bad.

If I had a high sheer mini blender....I'd whip up a liter or 2 and sell it on the beach in Dom Rep
Give me something to do over the next 3 weeks...besides chatting with a Retin A manufacturer and setting up an import deal


I am told the diving is the pits...so if anyone has info on Dom Rep....let me know.

新年快樂
 
#16 ·
Nope....I wouldn't sell it. Test it on you...sure


I'd rather be able to sell the ingredients, tools , assorted bits and pieces and share the recipes. That way, everybody wins.

I got into a snarl of a short pissing contest in the hair growth thread. I don't care...it's that sort of thing that makes it more interesting. The funny thing is, I am not selling anything...but that doesn't mean I won't or that I don't know how to do so nor where to get things. I do.

Time and Patience....same with the SS.


Thank you for the compliment in the other thread *blush* I am a sun bunny. I admit it....but not without a good SS.
 
#18 ·
Quote: Originally Posted by

I can't afford the MVO


Holy Batcrap...just checked the price!!! Hoooooo boy!! 40 bucks for 30 mls??? BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA....I think not.

Runs to check Devita $$$```50 mls for 20-25....better...but still...cheap oils.

That's what my recipes are all about...making it affordable. The added bonus, you can create your serums based on the clinical trials....and ...see if you enjoy the same results. So far so good for me and my guinea pigs.

Have a beauty of recipe for NAG and niacinamide...Idebenone, Vit E and A...silky smooth...effective. For *me * at any rate...and my GF who actually asked for more of it!!!

Quote: Originally Posted by

Where is the best place to get uncoated ZnO?


That ...I don't know...I get mine from my pharmacist...they are very patient and kind to me. Dirt cheap too. I can send you 25 grams if you like...let me know pronto as I leave the country in 3 days.
 
#20 ·
Ingredients/Tech Specs:
ZINC OXIDE UPS (ZCOTE)
Color: White
Odor: Odorless
Form: Powder
Specific Gravity: 5.61
Solubility in Water: Insoluble

Specific gravity of my SS Zn0 = 5.7

Zinc Oxide (ZCote) - 1 lb \tZinc Oxide (ZCote) - 1 lb \t$82.00 \t

Kind of stuck without it....and I sure as shooting didn't pay anywhere near that price for it.

BUT...1kg =2.2 lbs...1 pound = 453.6 grams .18 /gram = $4.00 US for ZnO for one 90 ml recipe. Still cheap.

Of course....for what I paid for it? costs me $0.41 US ZnO for 22.5 grams...

kinda makes you wanna go Hmmmmmmmmm....
 
#24 ·
I have tried the regular zinc from GOW and I'm happy with it. It's not too white on my skin. My SS is simple with water + oils + lecithin. I put the zinc during the cool down phase and whip it with a steady mixer and that makes things easier. I use GSE and put it in an airless pump bottle.
 
#26 ·
GrannzD,

If zou wish to use a preservative zou can....its up to zou.
I prefer not. I keep mz bottles and mixing sterile. I dont stick mz fingers into anzthing. I have not needed one as a result. I have it, I dont use it unless I want something around past 3 months....I make it fresh and dont worrz.

Preservatives are designed to bugger up the cell membranes of living organisms, its whz thez are effective....however, the backlash of that, is that some people are also sensitive to the same effect of said preservative.

Preservatives extend the shelf life bz killing off micro organisms...if zou dont introduce the bugs into the mix in the first place...zou dont need it.

Preservatives have their place where thez are warranted, but otherwise ...I choose not to use them, EOs as preservative, I do use. Again, that will be based on a persons tolerance for the EOs ...everzbodz is different.

The SKB I use alreadz has phenoxzethanl....if someone is selling it and sazs otherwise.....I personallz would not believe it for a second.

Its zour call.
 
#30 ·
Powder SS with good reviews. I have not used either of them.

Peter Thomas Roth Instant Mineral SPF 30

Ingredients
Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide (15%), Zinc Oxide (10%); Inactive Ingredients: Mica, Silica, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch (Corn), Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate) (Vitamin E), Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) (Vitamin C), Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Salix Alba (Willow Bark) Extract (Willow), Iron Oxides


Bare Escentuals
SPF 30 Natural Sunscreen

- Titanium Dioxide 12%- Sunscreen
Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Lycium Chinensis (Lycii Berry) Extract, Ranunculus Ficaria Root Extract, Silica. (+/-): Mica, Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, 77492, 77499), Ultramarines (Ci 77007), Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), Bismuth Oxychloride (Ci 77163).

  • low (spf 2-5)\tmoderate (spf 6-11)\thigh (spf 12-19)\tultra high (spf >20)
    titanium dioxide\t<4%\t8%\t12% \t20%
    titanium dioxide, micronized\t2%\t4%\t6%\t10%
    zinc oxide\t5%\t10% \t15%\t25%
    zinc oxide, micronized\t3%\t7.5%\t12%\t20%
 
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