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Updated DIY C Serum Recipe

121K views 497 replies 88 participants last post by  antmagnn 
#1 ·
15% C, E + Ferulic Acid Serum, 1oz

1 tsp L-Ascorbic Acid
1/4 tsp Ferulic Acid
1/3 cc/ml (.3) of Vitamin E Oil
1/3 cc/ml (.3) of Hyaluronic Acid
1 tsp SKB
1/4 tsp vodka
3 1/2 tsp Distilled H2O

To prepare use 2 shot glasses. In glass #1 put the H2O, Vodka, LAA + Ferulic Acid.. Stir frequently. It can take up to 30 minutes to *fully* dissolve. Mix the remaining ingredients in glass #2. When the contents of glass #1 have fully dissolved, combine both, stir well and put in your 1oz bottle.. Give it a good shake, and store in fridge or in a cool, dark place.. Shake a bit before use
[quote from Kassy]




 
#474 ·
I'm curious about whether this recipe with HA is really preferred over the ones with oils and why? Is this one for those who feel additional oils are bad for the acne? One other question. I know, I know scales are best. I even bought a good one, but I don't seem to be able to get it to work accurately and I always lose patience. I also don't have anything that measures 1/3 cc/ml. Is there a ballpark teaspoon measurement? I know precise is best, but....
 
#476 ·
hi ive just made Kassys cef recipe

1 tsp L-Ascorbic Acid
1 tsp Sea Kelp Bioferment
1 tsp Jojoba Oil
3 tsp Distilled water
1/4 tsp Ferulic Acid
1/4 tsp Vitamin E Oil
1/4 tsp Vodka

I have just put it on my face and i have a few questions.

firstly I didnt feel any tingling , is this normal?

secondly my skin feels tight and a big rough, like a powdery feel to it.

have I dont something wrong do you think?

is there anything I could do to give the serum a more silky feel when its on my skin?

thank you for any help
 
#478 ·
What if I increase the ascorbic acid from 15% to 20%?

I can easily guess the pH will come down remarkably (too acidic for skin?). We can always add NaOH to bring the pH back up to the 15% serum pH. But then it will be 15% ascorbic acid + 5% sodium ascorbate. I hear that sodium ascorbate is totally a different animal which is no longer as effective as ascorbic acid as long as skin care benefits are concerned (this is a part of the reasons why I gave up on creating PC Liposomal VIt C serum of pH 6.3). Therefore, this "20% serum" won't be that much different from the original "15% serum". after all. I understand Skinceutical provides 20% serum, which I used before any terribly acidic feel onto my skin. And I wonder how they keep the 20% concentration, unless the 20% includes both ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbate....


Thank you for your kind feedback, Fawnie.

JP
 
#479 ·
I really dont know JP but maybe Kassy can advise, since its her recipe and she did all the research on it!

When I used 20% LAA it was too harsh for me. Maybe if you build up to it by using 15% for a while and feel you arent getting the same results from it you could move up to higher strength but I dont know if it would benefit you any greater than 15%/most of the research for CEF serums was done on 15% IIRC.



 
#482 ·
I found this relatively old article about L-AA.

http://www.skinc.com.tw/pdf/C_paper.pdf

It seems skin absorption is clearly better at 20% than 15%, but once you pass this concentration, it declines.

Based on my calculation,

Ascorbic acid concentration pH
1% 4.10
5% 3.40
10% 3.10
15% 2.92
20% 2.80
25% 2.70

So, pH should not be that different between 15% and 20%, though both got a stingy feeling when I apply them...

JP
 
#487 ·
I found this relatively old article about L-AA.

http://www.skinc.com.tw/pdf/C_paper.pdf

It seems skin absorption is clearly better at 20% than 15%, but once you pass this concentration, it declines. JP
I learned so much from that article when I 1st came across it.. I hope all the DIY'ers will take advantage of reading & studying it.. Thanks for posting, I thoroughly enjoyed reading it again..

I thought you might be interested in a combo recipe I posted for L-AA & THDA back in July 2010 at EDS. You can easily tweak it to your desired concentrations for the vit C's
**NOTE: There is a mistake on the recipe title, and it should read 17%, not 22%**

Favorite Recipe for C+E+Ferulic Serum?

Just as an aside, in case it helps anyone... After all my experimenting, and diligent use of every possible combination for C serums, what I find to be the absolute best as far as results go, is a pH of about 2.5 and an L-AA concentration of 15%.. This has proved superb for me over the long haul..

I'd also offer that Vitamin C Serum is not a quick fix for anything, but the *miracle* it offers is a healthier, glowier & plumper skin with continued use. I typically use it 3 or 4 times per week. I have no doubt whatsoever, that the nice, subtle & cumulative results, are from a combination of new collagen being formed, and also the free radicals being kept at bay from the antioxidant activity in the serum..

Keep those antioxidants teamed up, in a lovely (low pH) DIY C serum, and trust me when I tell you, you do not have to spend a million to have million dollar skin..


Hope everyone is enjoying a lovely holiday season... hugs to all..



ETA: Please don't miss the part in the link that shows using more than 20% L-AA showed negative absorption in the skin..
They don't understand why that is either.. All I know from my own exhaustive research is that only 15% can be utilized by the skin... I don't see any harm in making up to 20% concentration though, because as it sits a while, it loses a little potency..
 
#484 ·
No. I actually had the same question when I read the article. Based on what I understand, at the fixed pH of 3.2, the maximal absorption was observed with 20% concentration. You cannot extrapolate to other pH. This, to me, was a bit odd and useless in a way because if you simply put 20% of ascorbic acid, it'll give you pH of 2.80.


JP
 
#486 ·
Well, that's the point of debate, though. You add 20% of ascorbic acid and reach the pH of 2.8 (unless some other actives bring the pH up). Now, the skin penetration at pH 2.8 may be better than it would be at pH of 3.5 (or whatever comfortable pH for our skin). Clearly Figure 1 demonstrates the linear association between pH and skin absorption at 15% concentration. So chances are there can be the same tendency at 20%, therefore, we may as well leave the pH at 2.8, as long as the skin tolerates it.

I actually started to think if we add 7% of oil-soluble (therefore nothing to do with pH) Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) in the oil phase (with tocopherol), which sounds like a promising(?) new face in the vitamin C derivative world, this will be a very potent vitamin C serum (20% L-AA + 7% THDA) though some may say it's simply "too much!". Just an idea....


JP
 
#488 ·
Wow. Your recipe looks very interesting. You added alpha lipoic acid to it.... What about adding CoQ10 in the oil phase?....

Speaking of antioxidants, I am thinking of creating some antioxidant serum, as well. R+Alpha Lipoic Acid, CoQ10 and some other classic antioxidants will definitely be in it, but I'm also interested in new faces such as Aldenine, Proventhelia, and Teprenone and Astragalus (both are supposed to keep the length of telomeres). DragoN's specials (Chrysin, Kinetin and Nicinamide) will be in there as well. I cannot put too much because I will need to add lecithin for PC LET, as well. It'll look like "Osmosis Replenish + new actives".

I actually created my own DIY recipe using both L-AA and THDA (just posted on the DIY forum several hours ago). Looks pretty much the same as yours. I added Dimethyl Isosorbide 10% just as a skin penetration enhancer. I'm sure once I start to create it, something unexpected come up.....



JP.
 
#489 ·
What about adding CoQ10 in the oil phase?....
JP.
Hi JP, I'm not an expert but when I made my serum, the Vitamin E I used was actually a CoQ10 + Vitamin E mix (from LotionCrafter, I think). The serum performed brilliantly IMO. The only drawback to the CoQ10 is that it tints the mixture, making it harder to tell when the Vitamin C has oxidized. However, if you're making it in small batches (30 ml at a time) and using it regularly, the serum should finished before the C begins to degrade.
 
#490 ·
I have been on a pretty aggressive skin care regimen and have been using Obagi's 20% Vitamin C serum.

I have some confusion about the DIY recipes for Vitamin C serum. I know it is important to maintain a ph of less than 3.5% and some recipes call for "adjusting" the ingredients to suit their skin's tolerance to the product. What determines the ph in the serum? For example, if I find a recipe for 15% strength, how do I adjust up to 20% and still maintain the proper ph? I'm a newbie so many THANKS!
 
#492 · (Edited)
Hello!

I have
L-Ascorbic Acid
Ethyl-Ascorbic Acid
Hyaluronic Acid
Niacinamide
Ferulic Acid
Sea Kelp Bioferment
Vitamin E natural mix tocopherols
Multi lamellar v1 with carrier oil free and sea kelp bioferment
Multi lamellar v2 carrier oil & polymer free and sea kelp bioferment
Multi lamellar v3 with rice bran oil and sea kelp bioferment
Pure organic coconut oil
Pure organic shea butter
Distilled water (In a brown bottle from 2years ago)

I'll like to make
SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic serum, simple vit c serum and anything else I could use them for without having to go through any complicated process, buy equipment or additional ingredients. Except perhaps Glycerin and rose water.
I can measure with teaspoons and ml.

Thank you.
 
#493 ·
hi @gymrat
in my search for diy vitamin c serum ingredients, i met a supplier of cosmetics additives who also makes his own mixes in Lagos.

he has a mix of hyaluronic acid gel, arbutin and sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) that serves as both vit c serum and lightener and has a shelf life of 6months.

i knw SAP is a more stable form of Vit c, but what i dnt knw is if it penetrates the skin as well as L-ascorbisc acid and if it will give d desired vitamin c serum results. Also do you think this mix will work if L-ascorbic acid is used in place of SAP

what do you think of this mix? yay or nay?
 
#494 ·
hi @gymrat
in my search for diy vitamin c serum ingredients, i met a supplier of cosmetics additives who also makes his own mixes in Lagos.

he has a mix of hyaluronic acid gel, arbutin and sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) that serves as both vit c serum and lightener and has a shelf life of 6months.

i knw SAP is a more stable form of Vit c, but what i dnt knw is if it penetrates the skin as well as L-ascorbisc acid and if it will give d desired vitamin c serum results. Also do you think this mix will work if L-ascorbic acid is used in place of SAP

what do you think of this mix? yay or nay?
I've used similar serums before. I just personally have better luck with LAA. But give it a try!
 
#496 ·
Hello everyone, I have long time to visit this forum which had learnt a lot! I make a fresh batch of Vit C every morning with just the powder LAA and filtered water.
I use 1/8tsp (0.6ml) of LAA to 1/2tsp (2.5ml) water, mix till dissolved and apply to face and neck. Can you please help me calculate the LAA percentage?
 
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