Ingredient to support absorption
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  1. #1

    Ingredient to support absorption

    I am on a quest to make a face moisturizer that absorbs easily into the skin. I just sampled one that was made with all organic ingredients that absorbed readily into my skin. The product was l'uvalla age defying day/night cream. It isn't my favorite formulation (scent is too strong, I don't know that I need all of the oils that they have and I'd prefer one made with the actives I like), but I enjoyed how it absorbed into my skin. I wondered if they used cetearyl alcohol cetearyl glucoside to support moisture absorption. I thought cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside were two separate ingredients but they list it with no comma in between so it appears as one ingredient. I know cetearyl glucoside is an emulsifier but didn't know if it also supports absorption. Would certain appreciate any insight.

    The listed ingredients are:
    water, hazel seed oil, palm kernel oil, cetearyl alcohol cetearyl glucoside, argan kernel oil, castor seed oil, lotus flower extract, sunflower seed oil, rosewood oil, rose geranium flower oil, lavendin oil, palmarosa oil, wheat germ oil, cypress oil, thyme oil, chlorophyllin-magnesium complex, bitter orange leaf oil, citric acid.

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  3. #2
    It's probably the light oils that make it absorb very fast. Hazel nut oil and castor oil are light oils, and even argan and sunflower oil absorb fast with out being oily on the surface. I don't know about palm kernel oil I never used it. Except for the wheat germ oil, the rest is mostly essential oils.

  4. #3
    SCT Elite edensong's Avatar
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    I think it should have been listed as cetearyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside, which is an emulsion system.

    I don't think of castor as being light, but it, as well as hazelnut, are astringent, so they may make the serum feel like it's more absorbent.

    The chlorophyllin-magnesium complex appears to have some copper in it. In googling I found this: Chlorophyllins are derivatives of chlorophyll in which the central magnesium atom is replaced by other metals, such as cobalt, copper or iron.

    You could certainly make an oil serum with properties you're wanting.

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  6. #4
    You are right, it's not one of the super light oils, but I always feel creams with castor oil tend to be light, Lancome seem to use this oil a lot. It's some time since I've had pure castor oil as I don't experiment that much with oils any more. I mostly go for the very light oils like rosehip, and any oil really if they are suppose to have a property I might like.

  7. #5
    SCT Elite edensong's Avatar
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    Castor is one of the less expensive oils, which may be why Lancome uses it.

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  8. #6
    Thanks 2blue - The sample still left my skin parched, so your explanation helped me figure out why it didn't moisturize as well as my eden-recommended mix of sweet almond, jojoba, olive and rosehip seed in the evening.

    Thanks eden - I would never have guessed it was the chlorophyllin-magnesium complex since the description of that ingredient didn't mean much to me. I'll look into that ingredient further as I continue to explore a DIY moisturizer for myself (would love something that I can use during the day that absorbs quickly enough for me to put my makeup on without smearing) and with all of the actives I like! =D

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    SCT Elite edensong's Avatar
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    What active properties do you want, ocres? You should be able to find them in straight oils, which is how I like to do it.

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  10. #8
    Thanks eden. I'm not sure I'm smart enough to answer your question yet because I'm still researching what I need/want. In general, I'm looking for a product largely to fight dry, aging skin and won't cause my makeup to settle into every single wrinkled crevice of my skin. When I say dry skin, I mean parched as a desert in the middle of July dry skin. I've used almost all that Sephora offers in natural/organic products for dry/mature skin and they all dry me out. Unfortunately, my skin is also sensitive too. I have found that 95% of others' recommendations for dry, sensitive skin products don't work for me. The 5% that does work usually doesn't have the actives I want and/or makes my face feel greasy.

    I am interested in including the following actives/ingredients: hyaluronic acid, seakelp, CoQ10, vitamin e, lecithin as an emulsifier and rose hydrosol (or another hydrosol) instead of distilled water applied against a base of some oil combo. Possible other ingredients are resveratrol, synthetic collagen and/or ceramides but don't want to get too crazy. I haven't researched all of these (and other ingredients) enough to see if they make sense for my skin though so this is still in process. Worst case, if I fail in finding something, then I buy an organic moisturizer as a base and add the above ingredients.

    btw - I've enjoyed the jojoba, rosehip seed, almond, olive combo so thank you so much for that. I saw somewhere you and others posted about the benefits of extra virgin coconut oil which sounds good. Do you think I can just use the stuff sold at my local organic grocery store (in their food products aisle where they keep other cooking oils)? Love the smell of coconut!

    Hopefully you weren't interested in watching the Olympics given the length of my response. So sorry!

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    SCT Elite edensong's Avatar
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    No, I'm not watching the Olympics. No TV for me.

    I'm glad you're liking the oil combo. Yes, you might like the coconut oil. Some find it to be drying, but that's usually when it's in soap, not used straight.

    Why not use the water soluble ingredients you want at their recommended percentages with the rose hydrosol as the base? You could then follow that with your oil serum.

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  12. #10
    Very interesting. Hadn't thought about it. Of course, it took me 6 months to get up the courage to make the VCS, but hopefully, it will only take a few more weeks for me to get the gumption to buy all the ingredients and try your suggestion out.

    btw - is there any difference between the organic EVOO/EV coconut oil sold in grocery stores in their cooking oil section vs. the stuff you buy online? The former would be soooo much more convenient.

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