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Alpha Hydroxy Acids - AHA's

3493 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Lexi2009
AHA's and clogged pores (just talking about 2 of the AHA's)

Glycolic Acid:
Glycolic acid is one of several alpha hydroxy acids (AHA?s) that are found in certain plants and fruits. Glycolic acid is the most commonly found AHA in cosmetic and skincare products and is derived from sugar cane.

Glycolic acid works as an exfoliant, removing dead skin cells that have accumulated on the surface of the skin. The build-up of these dead cells accentuates fine lines and dulls the appearance of the skin. It's also great for clearing black heads and minimizing pores.

Glycolic acid loosens the glue-like substance that holds layers of skin cells together. With use of a glycolic the ?glue? becomes loosened and thickened dead skin is sloughed away, leaving newer skin cells with a smoother texture and healthy appearance on the surface. Glycolics have also proven to be excellent for unclogging pores which decreases the tendency for acne to appear.

When first beginning a glycolic treatment or regimen there are a few things for which you should be prepared. You should feel a tingling sensation when applying a glycolic acid. After a few days of use you may notice slight redness or irritation of the skin as well as light to moderate flaking. Generally irritation will taper off within 2 to 3 weeks as your skin becomes accustomed to the product.

When starting out with a glycolic product it is best to use around a 10% glycolic content until your skin acclimates then you can gradually increase the percentage you are using.

Because each person?s skin is unique, it will react differently to products than another person?s skin. It is important to keep in mind the concentration of glycolic acid in a product as well as the pH of the product. The most effective glycolic products consist of 8% to 25% glycolic acid and have a pH between 2.5 and 4.5. The higher the amount of glycolic acid, the higher the pH can be.

Glycolics actually work well in conjunction with other types of products such as Retin-A, retinol, Vitamin C, bleaching agents and topical acne treatments. With prescription-strength products, it is recommended that you alternate usage of the glycolic and the prescription product to avoid possible irritation.

Many people experience some form of flaking during their treatment. Skin type has a lot to do with how much exfoliation you will experience. Glycolic acid will not cause more drying or dehydration for those with dry skin types; if you do have dry skin, you will tend to flake more than oily skin types because you have more dead skin cells that are being sloughed off. Glycolic acid tends to be very hydrating and therefore an excellent option for dry skin types who wish to resurface their skin.

If you feel glycolic acid is too harsh for your skin, a beta hydroxy acid regimen (products containing salicylic acid) may be the most beneficial for you.

Salicylic Acid:

Salicylic Acid - The main difference between alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy (salicylic) acid is solubility. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble only, while beta hydroxy acid is lipid soluble. This means that beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the sebum-filled pore and exfoliate the dead skin cells that have built up and clogged it. Because of this beta hydroxy acid is better used on oily skin with acne, but is commonly used for aging skin and sun damage as well.

A gentle exfoliant. Salicylic acid is lipid soluble and hence penetrates the fatty sebum produced by sebaceous glands, eliminates acne causing bacteria, and reduces the clogging of infected pores and acne.

Salicylic acid is effective at concentration between 1 and 3%. Glycolic acid becomes effective at concentrations of about 7% to 10%

Hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and glycolic acid, are widely used as exfoliating agents and for skin peels. They remove dead skin cells and also loosen and slowly dissolve skin lesions such as acne scars, keloid scars, surgical scars, burn scars, moles, skin tags, stretch marks, age spots, and sun damage marks.

Salicylic acid is effective at concentration between 1 and 3%. Glycolic acid becomes effective at concentrations of about 7% to 10%

The secret of hydroxy acid actions is that your healthy, normal skin is very tough and has a high resistance to such acids. In contrast, most skin lesions have less structural integrity and are more easily broken down by the acids. The repeated use of such acids over periods of a month or longer slowly dissolves most skin lesions.

Some research suggests that BHAs, especially salicylic acid, may be more effective in exfoliating the lower dermal skin layers and may be less irritating. Synthetic salicylic acid has long been in dermatology for treating adult acne. Salicylic acid is lipid soluble and hence penetrates the fatty sebum produced by sebaceous glands, eliminates acne causing bacteria, and reduces the clogging of infected pores and acne.

A small amount of the salicylic acid is converted into copper salicylate, a powerful and safe anti-inflammatory. This blends skin exfoliation with skin soothing actions. Salicylate also has ultraviolet absorbing properties. Prof. John Sorenson has researched and written extensively on beneficial actions of copper salicylate on skin, general health, and the anti-cancer properties of copper salicylates.

Leading dermatologist, Dr. Albert Kligman, in particular salicylic, at concentrations of about 2%, are better than Glycolic acid for anti-aging and for skin exfoliation. Professor Kligman is well known in dermatology for his research on the anti-aging actions of retinoic acid (Retin-A). Results from Dr. Kligman's laboratory found that the outermost stratum corneum layer is renewed after applications of salicylic acid.

To minimize or Improve your pores: (using SRCP's)

1. In the morning, wipe your face with a 2% salicylic acid pad (available at drugstrores).

2. Then apply a light amount of Exfol Serum (2% Salicylic acid) and leave it on.

3. At night, apply Super CP Serum (a SRCP plus salicylic serum) and leave it on.

Start with a maximum of 4 drops daily, then slowly increase the amount used.

4. About every two weeks, use pore cleansing strips on problem area. Drugstores have these.
Just do not overuse these to the point of skin irritation.
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Thank you for that. With my hyper oily skin, the salicylic acid would be better....didn't know the difference or what or why the difference - thanks!.

And I agree on alternating if you are on a prescription retiniod or retin-a or other acne meds....learned from past experience....he he he.
I am using Donnel 20 (20% Glycolic) mixed with a copper peptide (protect and restore from SkinBiology) and Eucerin Intensive Repair all mixed together. I am thinking of trying a product from Kavi that is 40-50% Glycolic but I am petrified I will peel like lepper. Anyone have any experience with higher level glycolics, especially the Kavi Products? The 20% is perfect for my face but I think I need a higher glycolic to resurface my body skin as I have a lot of accumulated skin damage from the sun.
Lexi just a thought for ya but it might be the copper peptides that are causing your skin damage!
IluvNY-why do you say that? It is weird as I have been using the peptides about the same amount of time that I have noticed the damage. How could this be? Should I just stop these? I must admit that my decollete is much better since I started in terms of pigment changes and oddly my hands are still fine if not better and I do not use peptides on them as I usually wash them a few times between the application during my night regimen and bed so I usually just use the Donell 20 (20% glycolic) as a hand cream and go to bed. It is the only area that has been looking better.

I never heard of damage from copper-peptides I thought they were supposedly some miracle cream but oddly you may be right! Can anyone elaborate as to why these may do that?

I bought a ton of products today at whole food markets, all "soothing". First I bough Aquaphor this am at Walgreens then I bought Burt's Bees Carrot Body Cream for "sun drenched, dry damaged skin" and then I got Jojoba Oil, a massage oil with Jojoba and Extra Virgin Coconut, a Jojoba and Oatmeal Scrub/mask. I am aiming to sooth my skin. It is like my skin became "leathery" overnight. There is just like a hardened layer over my arms especially. Let me know why you think it is the peptides. I spent a fortune on products from SkinBiology and now I wonder if you are not right as it makes perfect sense now-what a waste of money if they did this!
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Lexi you should talk to fawnie about this i think she used the skin biology products and will be able to advise your properly.

However if you are getting problems with your skin you should stop your current skin care routine and just go back to basics skin rountine and give your skin a break, you dont want to cause further damage!
IluvNY I have advised Fawnie of my regimen and am awaiting her advice. I also bought a lot of calming products yesterday and will be giving my skin a break to see if what I am doing is what is causing damage. The big problem is when you start getting obsessive like I am and using everything possible it is hard to know just which product or what in your regime is causing the problem. BTW where in London do you live? I used to live in Maida Vale and Muswell Hill.
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