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They fail to mention this about ascorbyl palmitate.

Taken from smartskincare.com

Ascorbyl palmitate

Ascorbyl palmitate is the most widely used fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C in skin care. It is nonirritating and more stable than vitamin C. Furthermore, ascorbyl palmitate is a fat-soluble antioxidant and is at least as effective as vitamin E in protecting the skin from lipid peroxidation (a key type of free radical damage in the skin). Unfortunately, it appears that the concentrations of ascorbyl palmitate achievable in skin care formulas do not boost collagen synthesis as much as vitamin C.
 

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Thanks for pointing that out, Peri. Good point! Here's what I think:

It may be a trade-off situation, since the ascorbyl palmitate is only "slightly less potent" than L-ascorbic and is more stable. So, while we would use the less stable/more potent L-ascorbic in DIY formulas and just make a new batch every 2 weeks or so, in a ready-made serum the more stable/less potent ascorbyl palmitate might be better for use in a serum that sits on the shelf for 2 weeks before being shipped.

This is just my thinking on it....What do you think? I'm not trying to sell this stuff! LOL - Just trying to sort out what might be the better ready-made for ppl who are not interested in DIY.

http://www.makingcosmetics.com/fact-...-palmitate.pdf



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Thanks for pointing that out, Peri. Good point! Here's what I think:

It may be a trade-off situation, since the ascorbyl palmitate is only "slightly less potent" than L-ascorbic and is more stable. So, while we would use the less stable/more potent L-ascorbic in DIY formulas and just make a new batch every 2 weeks or so, in a ready-made serum the more stable/less potent ascorbyl palmitate might be better for use in a serum that sits on the shelf for 2 weeks before being shipped.

This is just my thinking on it....What do you think? I'm not trying to sell this stuff! LOL - Just trying to sort out what might be the better ready-made for ppl who are not interested in DIY.

http://www.makingcosmetics.com/fact-...-palmitate.pdf
That's a very valid point there.
 

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I agree. Like everything else in life, it seems, there a trade-off. Let me summarize to make sure I get it right and for others who may be less familiar with the issue. So correct me if I'm not -

Water-soluble forms of ascorbic acid are less stable but penetrate the skin better and so are more effective.

Oil-soluble forms of ascorbic acid are more stable but penetrate the skin to a lesser degree and so are less effective.

That seems to be why the oil-soluble forms are less expensive - they are less effective and there is no known technology to enhance absorption - so we are not paying for it.

It is also why the water-soluble ones are more expensive - not because they are more effective so much as we are paying for the technology involved to give them a reasonable shelf-life after formulation.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here I am trying to download a DIY C Infopack:
<a href="http://www.smartskincare.com">Skin Care Information, Research and Reviews</a>



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K guys back up, you have lost me here.

I order my stuff from makingcosmetics What Vit C are you talking about? They have 3 forms. L-ascorbic acid/L-ascorbyl palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

Or am I completely lost and you aren't even talking about their Vit C?

And what is the deal with the Vit C serum. Someone on another forum said there is going to be some news coming out on it. What kind of news? Anyone know? It's all a bunch of BS and our faces are going to melt? Lol, let me know if you guys know.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This DIY serum looks interesting. The form of E they use really does. I'll have to investigate that.

House of Deming
Hi Peri
How did you get the Infopack to download? I'm still hassling around trying to provide them a website in order to be able to do it!!

I looked at that House of Deming website. Sure enough, their Cetic-16 C serum contains l-ascorbic acid, but look at what they have to say about it:

"Vitamin C (Ascorbyl Palmitate/Palmitic acid ester - Vitamin C) a natural antioxidant derived from Vitamin C and Palm oil. Most skin care products contain the most common form of Vitamin C, L-absorbed Acid, which is only water soluble (& not Fat soluble) meaning it will never penetrate into your skin, and thus it's ineffective. Only Vitamin C as Ascorbic Palmitate is both fat and water soluble, and able to be absorbed by the skin. All of PureDeming's products that include Vitamin C use only this form of Vitamin C. This form of Vitamin C is essential for the production of collagen and it also assists in healing inflammations and promoting the growth of collagen, which in turn, firms the skin. Additionally, it is essential in the prevention of collagen break down, resulting in combating the signs of aging. There is much confusing over which form of Vitamin C to choose: L-ascorbic acid or Ascorbyl Palmitate. L-ascorbic acid is sensitive to formulary concerns, including concentration as well as the pH level needed for it to remain stable, thus most topicals containing Vitamin C in this from are ineffective [they are not high unstable and inconsistent, thus you do not receive the benefits of topical Vitamin C. Though it is most often used as it is much more inexpensive then Ascorbyl Palmitate]. Ascorbyl palmitate, which is stable, has none of the product degradation concerns that L-ascorbic acid does, this is, also, why our products use this form of Vitamin C. Note: in our Cetic-16 we use pure Vitamin C, in the form of L-ascorbic acid. There are no stability problems given when the consumer gets the product, they add the Vitamin C powder to the premix base, thus ensuring its effectiveness."

What's up with that???



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Discussion Starter #14
And what is the deal with the Vit C serum. Someone on another forum said there is going to be some news coming out on it. What kind of news? Anyone know? It's all a bunch of BS and our faces are going to melt? Lol, let me know if you guys know.
Gymrat,
Could you post a link to the thread on the other forum where they discussed "some news coming out on it"?



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Hi Peri
How did you get the Infopack to download? I'm still hassling around trying to provide them a website in order to be able to do it!!

I looked at that House of Deming website. Sure enough, their Cetic-16 C serum contains l-ascorbic acid, but look at what they have to say about it:

"Vitamin C (Ascorbyl Palmitate/Palmitic acid ester - Vitamin C) a natural antioxidant derived from Vitamin C and Palm oil. Most skin care products contain the most common form of Vitamin C, L-absorbed Acid, which is only water soluble (& not Fat soluble) meaning it will never penetrate into your skin, and thus it's ineffective. Only Vitamin C as Ascorbic Palmitate is both fat and water soluble, and able to be absorbed by the skin. All of PureDeming's products that include Vitamin C use only this form of Vitamin C. This form of Vitamin C is essential for the production of collagen and it also assists in healing inflammations and promoting the growth of collagen, which in turn, firms the skin. Additionally, it is essential in the prevention of collagen break down, resulting in combating the signs of aging. There is much confusing over which form of Vitamin C to choose: L-ascorbic acid or Ascorbyl Palmitate. L-ascorbic acid is sensitive to formulary concerns, including concentration as well as the pH level needed for it to remain stable, thus most topicals containing Vitamin C in this from are ineffective [they are not high unstable and inconsistent, thus you do not receive the benefits of topical Vitamin C. Though it is most often used as it is much more inexpensive then Ascorbyl Palmitate]. Ascorbyl palmitate, which is stable, has none of the product degradation concerns that L-ascorbic acid does, this is, also, why our products use this form of Vitamin C. Note: in our Cetic-16 we use pure Vitamin C, in the form of L-ascorbic acid. There are no stability problems given when the consumer gets the product, they add the Vitamin C powder to the premix base, thus ensuring its effectiveness."

What's up with that???
Wow, I did not see that.

At the bottom it says they use L-ascorbic acid and at the top it says it doesnt work????? No mention of this in that first DIY c serum????? Red flag!!!!!! I'm not really a fan of this DIY anyway. I personally use things like butylene glycol as well as other penetrating agents to assist in absorption.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Peri,
Is propylene glycol (anti-freeze) another example of an absorption agent? I'm pretty dumb about all these other chemicals....are they harmful?



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Thanks Peri,
Is propylene glycol (anti-freeze) another example of an absorption agent? I'm pretty dumb about all these other chemicals....are they harmful?
Yes, I'm hoping it will keep me warmer in the winter.

There is a good thread somewhere around here about these two. Butylene glycol was said to be the safer of the 2. Although the PG is in Skinceuticals CE Ferulic.
 
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