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I am a licensed esthetician in the State of WA and currently work for a high end spa in downtown Seattle. I know how frustrating it is to have skin problems and understand that the skin is a science. Learning how to read our own skin is crucial in maintaining balance. Our skin is constantly letting us know what is going on, whether we are dry, sensitive, acne prone, rosacea prone or have full blown inflammation there are so many factors that contribute both internally and externally and unfortunately, since the skin is our largest organ, most of the common skin related problems happens on the face. Usually it's caused by stress, hormonal issues, not eating properly, improper products being used, too much sun, cold, extreme temperatures, friction from hands or clothing... medications, illness... I can go on. It's hard to pinpoint exactly the cause but with some information, I am more than willing to help people online... Just ask and I will do my best to answer your questions. Perhaps together we can come up with a better solution for your skin and a good skin care regimen for home use.
 

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I just started using Prevage by Elizabeth Arden and was wondering if you think this is a good product. I bought it in a drug store so its not the prescription strength. I am also considering switching fron Vichy products to either NeoStrata or Reversa. Which do you recommend. I live in British Columbia Canada,am 47 years old and have fairly good skin...i am just wanting the best product for fine lines and signs of aging etc
 

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Hi Seaaura, and welcome!

Please could I ask your opinion on my post attached below as I have been using Dermalogica products for 2weeks and was told it could take 3 months to see improvements in my dehydrated skin...

My name is Tasha and I have very recently started to see changes to my skin so I went to see a Dermalogica skin therapist about my large pores, and my dehydrated tight feeling skin. She told me a have karatosis polaris which means I retain my dead skin cells so this is causing my pores to look bigger, she also said my skin is dehydrated which could have been caused by using too many acne products in the past, I also wonder if coming off the contraception pill has contributed because I went on it 10yrs ago for my acne and a month after I came off it I started seeing these changes. It's really getting me down and I started drinking 2L of water a day 2 months ago as well forking out loads of money of Dermalogica products and facials, but as I have been only using these products 2 weeks I have been told to be more patient and that it could take 1-3 months to see an improvement.

I have also heard that Galvanic facials can help the skin retain moisture and rejuvinate the skin..?

Does anyone have any advice or anyone had these problems and have come through the other end with significant improvements in their skin??

Thanx, your help would be greatly appreciated!!

Tashalp.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just started using Prevage by Elizabeth Arden and was wondering if you think this is a good product. I bought it in a drug store so its not the prescription strength. I am also considering switching fron Vichy products to either NeoStrata or Reversa. Which do you recommend. I live in British Columbia Canada,am 47 years old and have fairly good skin...i am just wanting the best product for fine lines and signs of aging etc
My advise is for you to get a facial and have the esthetician recommend skincare products for you. I am unable to determine what your skin looks like therefore I can't recommend products for your skin. I do know that department store products do not compare in any way to the quality skincare products found at spas or dermatologist offices. I sell Cellex-C products at our spa and it's made in Canada. You may want to look into this brand, they have the best serums I have found for hydrating and anti-aging and their moisturizers are to die for. If you are ever down in the Seattle area, come see me at Spa Blix. I would be more than happy to give you a free consultation and perhaps you'll want to get a facial from me.
 

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Hi Seaaura, and welcome!

Please could I ask your opinion on my post attached below as I have been using Dermalogica products for 2weeks and was told it could take 3 months to see improvements in my dehydrated skin...

My name is Tasha and I have very recently started to see changes to my skin so I went to see a Dermalogica skin therapist about my large pores, and my dehydrated tight feeling skin. She told me a have karatosis polaris which means I retain my dead skin cells so this is causing my pores to look bigger, she also said my skin is dehydrated which could have been caused by using too many acne products in the past, I also wonder if coming off the contraception pill has contributed because I went on it 10yrs ago for my acne and a month after I came off it I started seeing these changes. It's really getting me down and I started drinking 2L of water a day 2 months ago as well forking out loads of money of Dermalogica products and facials, but as I have been only using these products 2 weeks I have been told to be more patient and that it could take 1-3 months to see an improvement.

I have also heard that Galvanic facials can help the skin retain moisture and rejuvinate the skin..?

Does anyone have any advice or anyone had these problems and have come through the other end with significant improvements in their skin??

Thanx, your help would be greatly appreciated!!

Tashalp.
Hi Tashalp, I can only imagine how frustrated you are and I will do my best to give you some good advise. Are you sure you were told you have keratosis pilaris? KP resembles goosebumps, it is characterized by the appearance of small, rough bumps on the skin. Primarily, it appears on the back and outer sides of the upper arms, but can also occur on thighs and buttocks or any body part except palms or soles. Does this describe what you have? There is no cure for keratosis pilaris, since KP is a chronic, genetic follicular disease, however treatments are available. Results from treatments vary and can often be disappointing. My suggestion to you is that you see a medical dermatologist rather than a skincare specialist or esthetician. Products used to treat keratosis pilaris include: Glycolic Acid (AHA), Lactic Acid, Urea, Vitamin A Treatments, Microdermabrasion... however a dermatologist may recommend a laser treatment or a very strong peel that will have better results but you will need to see them to see if you are a good candidate. If your skin is sensitive then such treatments can just make your skin more sensitive. I would also recommend that you start taking omega 3,6 & 9, a total essential fatty acid supplements (fish oils) and take all 3 gel tabs at night so you don't burp it up during the day and also get the full benefits of these essential oils during your resting phase. Vitamin B Complex is also very good to take to reduce stress to the skin and I would take my B's in the mornings. You can find all kinds of advise on the world wide web... I would love to know how you are doing and if you are getting any results. Galvanic facials are very good for infusing moisture deep into the pores, however, these are all superficial treatments. Anything is better than nothing. I would also recommend that you get a good oil-free, hydrating serum to wear under your moisturizer. Glycolic acid peels done weekly can help to reduce the appearance of large pores. Let me know how you do... I'm sure with diligence and good products you will see good results.
 

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Hi Seaaura,
Thank you that has been very helpful. The Dermalogica skin therapist said i don't shed my skin sells enough and that has caused me to get some blocked pores on my chest and enlarged pores on my cheeks, but the skin doesn't look like how you described. I have also been told it takes about 2 months of drinking 2l of water a day to see any improvement to my dehydration, is this true? I read on on the net that dehydrated skin is a state and that once my skin regains it's natural moisture level then it will return to being supple, I am experiencing dehydration lines and tight feeling skin, is this correct? Also I was told it takes at least 28 days for this because of the cell renewal time. Unfortunately my gp won't refer me to a Dermatolagist so I would have to go private at the cost of £150 just for a consultation! Last of all, do you think this problem could have been caused by me coming off the contraceptive pill? I was on it for 10yrs, originaly for acne, ad a month after I came off it my skin started getting like this.

Thank you, I eagerly await your reply.
Kind Regards,
Tasha.
 

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Hi Tasha, yes hormones plays a large part in the quality of your skin. The sun is a huge factor too. Make sure you are using a good oil-free or non-comedogenic physical block that blocks both UVA & UVB rays daily. Even on cloudy rainy days the rays penetrate so an SPF is a crucial part of your skin maintenance. You are going through changes and it will take about 6 months for your hormone levels to regulate after having been on hormone replacement or birth control. Drinking water is important... we are 70% water so keeping yourself hydrated does make a difference but sometimes we don't retain it so you may want to take an electrolyte daily to help with this. I take a packet of Emergen-C which contains electrolytes. The supplements that I mentioned to you will help too. I recommend using products that contain peptides and hyaluronics, natural ingredients, botanicals or phyto chemicals with minimal essential oils. Cleanse with a gentle cleanser, perhaps something that has no more than 7% glycolic acid and only wash once a day. Excessive exfoliation will cause congestion and oiliness. Use a witchhazel toner without alcohol lightly in the mornings and after workouts. Get yourself a good hydrating serum and apply on clean skin and then put your oil-free or lightweight serum and moisturizer that contains the above ingredients to help keep your skin hydrated. You may need a heavier moisturizer at night if you find your are not that hydrated and having some peeling. Please let me know how you do. If you have any way of purchasing Pavonia products in your area, I find them to be the best. You would benefit from their sensitive skin line. Also too are the serums from Cellex-C, such as sensitive skin or the hydra 5 B-Complex. I'm not a big fan of Dermologica but I know that it is mass produced and here it's sold everywhere. If anything just use their calming line. Please keep in touch.
 

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Thank you Seeaura that is helpful! I have not heard of these brands you talk about, so will have to look online. I am going to see a lady who uses Liz Earl products tomorrow and she also going to discuss steaming and the new CACI Hydratone facial whish I believe uses galvanic currents to penetrate hydrating products further into the skin so hoping a regular facial will help my skin.
Will let you know when I see any improvements.
Can I ask why you don't like Dermalogica? is it just that it didn't work for you?
Thanx again.
T.
 

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Hi Tasha,
Actually I have nothing against Dermalogica, they actually have a few products in their line that are excellent. I feel once you hit a certain age, that there are skincare lines that just do not have the boost older skin needs to keep hydrated. I used to use Dermalogica and just love their SPF sensitive skin which I still use to this day. I also use their calming cleanser. I have just used products that I found had better results for certain skin disorders such as extremely dehydrated skin, sensitive skin and rosacea prone skin. There are bits and pieces from several skincare lines that I use myself. I use Pavonia's gentle cleanser with Cellex-C serums and then Image Vital C hydrating repair cream for my day cream and Cellex-C Extra Moist for my night cream. It's all a science and you just have to find products that work best with your skin and then cut back on things or increase things as needed depending on the effects your skin experiences during seasonal climate changes or stresses in your life, hormonal, etc. My regimen changes as I age as well. I also use supplements to maintain a balance both internal and external. Please let me know about the CACI Hydratone facial wash. I'm curious how you will react to it and how soon you will see benefits and good results. Please keep me informed. I am glad that you are taking measures to improve your skin. I checked up on Liz Earl products and it seemed a lot of it has anti-aging properties. If you have sensitive skin, be aware that some Retinoyl products (Vit A) can be irritating and also products containing copper. Products containing too much glycolics can be irritating and drying as well. I don't agree that a muslim cloth should be used daily to wash your face and I am not a fan of washing your face twice as it just removes more of your natural oils and further dehydrates your skin, unless you have oily skin or oily,acne prone skin then washing with a foamy type cleanser twice a day is recommended. Apparently Liz Earl has a cleanser, toner and moisturizer for sensitive skin. This may be something that would be better for your skin unless you have regular breakouts. The rep for these products should know which products would work best for your skin. Do not use a scrub of any kind more than once a week for your skin type and certainly nothing harsh and abrasive. Well, enough for now. Keep me informed. Good luck with your progress. Mia
 

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Hi Seaaura

Wow, I'm so happy you're here. It's such a confusing market out there and (like I'm sure a lot of other women have) I've spent amazing amounts of money on all sorts of skin care products, but I'm still not really sure what to use.
I was wondering if you could answer a couple of questions for me. I'll give you bit of background:

I bought Dermalogica and used it for about a month. Before that, I'd been using inexpensive products like Oil of Olay creams and Garnier facial wash. I'm 26 and thought it's time to invest in my skin. Though I've never had any problems with acne or the like.
Recently, I developed a little bout of Eczema on my face and went to see a dermatologist. He told me that it makes no difference whether a product is expensive or not, it's what feels good.
I have a combination skin, but recently it's been a bit dry. So here are my questions:

1. I'm thinking of using the Elizabeth Arden 8 hour cream at night. Is this too rich to use on your face?
2. Can you rub oils (like Cammelia oil and olive/coconut oil) straight on your face instead of moisturiser? For example, at night?
3. My dermatologist said that exfoliation is damaging and not to do it, is he right?
4. Vitamin C products seem to yield conflicting reviews about their stability in products. Should I even consider them?
5. Last but not least - a pore minimiser. Who should use them and how?
6. Oh wait, one more.
is it OK to use the same moisturiser by day and night and just layer a tinted sunscreen over by day?

Thanks so much. I know it's a lot. But it'll help A WHOLE LOT!

Este
 

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Hi Este,

I will do my best to answer your questions. To begin with... having even a little bit of eczema is essentially having eczema. Anything can cause an outbreak because it's an auto-immune disorder of the skin. The best oil for your skin is Jojoba Oil. You can read about it's benefits online but it is derived from the seed of the jojoba tree native to our southern states. It is a natural anti-inflammatory making it safe for eczema and because it's loaded with Vitamin E, it helps to heal and soothe the skin. Jojoba oil is the only oil closest to our own sebum (skin oils) in consistency and actually works with our own sebum to promote balance. It is anti-acneic (will not clog the pores or cause congestion) it actually helps to heal acne lesions. It is a great pore cleanser and will aid to hydrate dry patches. You can use a drop to help increase moisture on your face or in your moisturizer. It's a wonderful oil to put into your bath water. It is actually a liquid wax and will absorb into the skin quickly. It removes eye makeup beautifully and conditions the eyelashes. It is anti-microbial and anti-fungul. It's an amazing oil and I recommend it to everyone with all skin types. I am not familiar with camelia oil but I do know and have read that unprocessed virgin coconut oil has similar properties to Jojoba oil and can heal and soothe eczema. I have not had any experience with it and would get a sample to see if it absorbs as well as Jojoba oil. Massage therapists and estheticians normally use Jojoba because it has the least likelihood of causing irritation to the skin and it absorbs quickly, hydrating the skin and nourishing it.

I agree with your doctor about exfoliation. If you use one, it should be mild and made with either grape seed extracts or Jojoba beads and you should only exfoliate gently for about a minute once a week, just to remove the dead skin cells off the surface of your face so your products can penetrate better. No more or you could result in a eczema breakout. I would not use any products containing retinol (Vitamin A) or strong Vitamin C product could promote an eczema breakout. No harsh exfoliants such as apricot scrubs or even microdermabrasion should ever be used on your skin. Gentle gentle products and actually if you are prone to eczema, just using a soft cloth with some cooked oatmeal mixed with Jojoba oil is your best exfoliant.

Your best friend is gentle oil-free products meant for sensitive skin. Products that contain such ingredients as aloe vera, chamomile, arnica, green tea, peppermint, azuline, cucumber, sea silk, algae, oat bran... soothing ingredients.

The other thing to consider is you use mineral makeup such as Bare Essentials or Bare Minerals. Wash your brushes once a month.

I am not crazy about Elizabeth Arden products. The best serum to promote the synthesis of collegen/elastin and reduce the effects of aging is the serum for sensitive skin by Cellex-C. You would only apply it in the morning. It is formulated to strengthen the barrier function of your own lipids and immunity for your skin. It's only to be used in the mornings and contains a special formula by Cellex C of L-tyrosine, L-Ascorbic Acid and Zinc (for balancing and evening out your skin tone) You would mix a couple drops of this along with their Hydra 5 B-Complex serum in the morning and then apply the best cream for your eczema. G.L.A. Extra Moist by Cellex-C. You can buy it online or perhaps at a local spa but it is the best skincare cream for eczema and psoriasis. Cellex-C G.L.A. Extra Moist Skin Cream is an almond-colored, extra rich moisturizer for hydrating very dry skin. The formulation contains optimal levels of Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA) from Evening Primrose Oil, along with skin benefiting vitamin E and herbal extracts to soothe chapped and irritated skin. The luxuriously rich moisturizer instantly make the driest skin feel moist and velvety. The formulation encourages formation of a lipid moisture-barrier film to help prevent water loss from the surface of the skin. G.L.A. (gamma linoleic acid), derived from evening primrose flowers, is known to increase the permeability and flexibility of cell membranes and helps regulate water loss. By ensuring that the skin’s surface moisture level remains optimal, G.L.A. Extra Moist also helps to prevent dehydration and other visible signs of premature aging of the skin. Experiments have shown that dry, scaly, aging skin results when linoleic acid (which is synthesized in the body to G.L.A.) is absent from the diet. Skin Types / Conditions: Suitable for very dry skin and skin prone to eczema and psoriasis. You can read more about Cellex-C at this link and perhaps find it locally at a spa near you or online. This website has it for cheaper than our spa. We sell for $64.00 but you can find it online for cheaper. At night you would only use the Hydra-5 B-Complex under the moisturizer. The GLA eye balm is great for both morning and evening and helps to keep the eye area hydrated.

Your ph level on your skin should be less acidic and more alkaline. So drink lots of water (64 oz minimum) and add lemon to your water. Not too much or you can get canker sores. Cut back on wheat, dairy and sugar and meats. Eating too much cheese, meat, chocolate, coffee, cream, milk, sodas and such can cause too much acid to be produced causing congestion and pimples. Eating more fresh fruits and vegetables helps to alkaline the body and balance the pH levels.

You can use the same moisturizer both day and night as long as it is hydrating your face and not congesting it. It should be specific to your skin type. A tinted suncreen is fine... make sure it's a 30 SPF but if you have congested skin and occasional pimples, I suggest getting an oil free. I recommend IMAGE skincare Sun Defense Oil Free SPF 30.

There is no such thing as a pore minimizer. That is an advertising ploy. You can make pores appear smaller with drying agents and firming agents but in your case with eczema that is not a good idea as drying out the skin with tightening products could result in an eczema breakout. The best thing for your skin is to keep is moist and hydrated. By keeping it moist and hydrated with the right products you will reduce the chances of aging quicker. We cannot stop the aging process but we can stay hydrated thereby plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

See an esthetician (an experienced one who believes in holistic skincare approach) and she will recommend the best products for your skin type.

Good luck and let me know if there is anything else I can help you with.

Mia.
 

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Hi Mia

Wow. Thanks so much. It's so great having professional, honest advice. Vanity can be an expensive mistress sometimes.

Also, thanks for the heads-up on the pore minimizer. It was on my shopping list.
Cellex-C products are not available in this country, though I'm buying Jojoba oil and plan on switching to a Vitamin E skincare range (I think Bodyshop has one) or possibly trying the moisture surge from Clinique. I think I'm going to be living in Sample-Land for a while.
Thanks again, you've saved me a whole heap of worry wrinkles and frown lines.
Este
 

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Quote: Originally Posted by

Your ph level on your skin should be less acidic and more alkaline. So drink lots of water (64 oz minimum) and add lemon to your water. Not too much or you can get canker sores. Cut back on wheat, dairy and sugar and meats. Eating too much cheese, meat, chocolate, coffee, cream, milk, sodas and such can cause too much acid to be produced causing congestion and pimples. Eating more fresh fruits and vegetables helps to alkaline the body and balance the pH levels.


Thank you so much seaaura. I have been reading so much about ph inside and outside of the body and am making changes. (Must remember to limit my processed foods and go for fresh fruit/veggies.)

Your posts are sooo informative and helpful. Thanks again.
 

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Hi Sea-aura;
I am a RN--new to the site. I am 54 years old and I live in Salem Oregon. I am looking for a skin care line that has it's roots based in science. So much of what is out there is not rooted in science and is ineffective---we are throwing our money away on those products. I am one of those rare women that doesn't really like to shop. Do you know of any skin care lines that are backed by good scientific research proving their efficacy? I have tried Bio-medic and Obagi. These are two lines that I was introduced to by Plastic Surgeons that I work with in the Operating Room.
Doing research on-line I found a line called 3 Lab that has HGH in it and also a line called Nia. But one of the members of this site said "no" to both of those lines---but gave no explanation as to why she was saying no...I know that the 3 Lab line was developed by three individuals with strong backgrounds in science.
I also know that for any product to have a scientific backing that it has to have been put thru "Randomized Double-blind Prospective Studies" and passed them with a high percentage to prove efficacy. So I am wondering if there are any lines new or old out there that I don't know about that have met those standards...
Thank you for any input or advice you might have for me.

Candace
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi Candace, Try looking into Chrysalis Cosmetics, Vivite, Image Skincare and Pavonia Botanica, as these are lines that most Dermatologists carry. I am not quite understanding what you mean by scientifically made skincare products that are root based in science? I may be wrong but I was taught that all skincare products made have to be approved by the FDA to be sold to the public and they have to be formulated by scientists in a lab and tested before they can be marketed. I agree that some formulations are not as effective as others, particularly those that are mass produced as some companies will forfeit quality ingredients for lesser quality to save costs... therefore the products are not formulated with effective ingredients. I have been taught with a more holistic belief, using natural ingredients in products with the least amount of synthetic ingredients. I also have used Cellex-C for years and have had excellent results. I am a firm believer that having discipline in your skincare routine, living a healthy lifestyle and eating a well balanced and nutritious diet, drinking plenty of water will benefit your body in general resulting in good skin. I have also believe in using quality products with a good reputation and positive reviews. Quality ingredients can deliver ingredients into the skin at a cellular level and usually you will notice results in your skin within 6 to 8 weeks. Skin in itself is a science, it's ever changing with age, weather, internal and external changes in the body, diet, stress, hormones... so many factors come into play when it comes to your skin and a skincare line is just a portion of what effects your skin. It is in essence the blanket that protects your skin, keeps it hydrated or aids in repair. Sometimes you just have to try something based on knowledge you have acquired from a professional (dermatologist or esthetician) or perhaps reading something in a magazine that sounds familiar and seems to pertain to your skin type... I always give a product a chance, a month or more. If you do not see positive results in your skin, then take the product back. It takes 28 days for cells to come to the surface from the basil layer so giving a product a month will allow your skin to adjust to it. Some ingredients will accelerate the cell renewal rate and therefore you may see more congestion or pimples as a result but they were developing and would have surfaced anyway. Sometimes things get worse before they get better when you are trying to correct something. I, myself, use products from 2 or 3 different skincare lines because they have become favorites. My moisturizer is not the same as my SPF but it all works synergistically together. I apologize if I am not answering your question and going off on knowledge that I do know. Please enlighten me if there is something that I am unaware of. I am always willing to learn something knew and research it. I am somewhat confused with the Randomized Double-blind Prospective Studies in skincare because from what I understand, these are studies that involve placebo ingredients compared to actual effective ingredients and trying them randomly on human subjects to see what effects they have and thereby coming up with a statistic. They use this form of study on new medications. I feel it can be effective to insure that a company is actually marketing something that brings results. I am baffled and amazed by the enormity and complexity of science in general. At any level, I hope I have helped you.
 

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Hi Seassura

I was just reading your reply above about skincare coming mostly from within. Because of my eczema, I've started using a light serum on my face (boasts cell-renewal) and then plain old aqueous cream over it - it's free from any ingredients that could cause a flare-up. I use quite a bit of this (of course with an SPF 40 by day over)
Is aqueous good enough? I drink plenty of water and take Omega 3 and 6 supplements. I get a fair amount of exercise and eat healthy most of the time.
Am I doing damage to my skin by not slathering on a more ingredient-rich product?
Thanks
Este
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Este, I'm sorry for the late reply. Aqueous products mean mostly that it's base is water based rather than oil based. This approach is definitely safe and you are doing internally what is best for your skin. Omega 3, 6 & 9 are rich in anti-inflammatory oils that work systemically and help produce healthier cells. My recommendation is that you use one drop of Jojoba Oil (natural, anti-inflammatory, high in Vit E, anti-fungal, anti-acneic and noncomedogenic) It's great both for prevention and also during flare-ups. I would not mix it in with the moisturizer but simply add a drop to the amount of moisturizer you apply regularly in your hand. There is a great website called HealthMad and if you search for natural remedies of Eczema, it's got so much info in there that could help. I am unable to advertise in here by giving you the direct link, darn! Anyway, I hope you are able to access it. Good luck and let me know what works best for you. Mia
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi Seassura

I was just reading your reply above about skincare coming mostly from within. Because of my eczema, I've started using a light serum on my face (boasts cell-renewal) and then plain old aqueous cream over it - it's free from any ingredients that could cause a flare-up. I use quite a bit of this (of course with an SPF 40 by day over)
Is aqueous good enough? I drink plenty of water and take Omega 3 and 6 supplements. I get a fair amount of exercise and eat healthy most of the time.
Am I doing damage to my skin by not slathering on a more ingredient-rich product?
Thanks
Este
Este, please look at what I posted above this. I hope it helps. I apologize for the late reply. Mia
 
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