Throughout the past decade, things have changed in the world of skincare. Improved ingredient penetration has become a standard, new study-supported ingredients are producing amazing results and consumers are becoming believers?as well as more demanding?after learning about their skin from every type of media outlet.
One example of a highly studied and results-oriented group of new ingredients that is becoming readily available is peptides. These include Matrixyl, otherwise known as palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, and Argireline, otherwise known as acetyl hexapeptide-3. Because they are being touted as miracle substances in consumer magazines and on television clients want products that contain them and gladly will accept a larger price tag if they become educated about their results and realities.
What are peptides?
In order to understand these amazing new ingredients., it is important to learn what they are and what they will do for your skin. For years, collagen masks have been used in various treatments. But collagen is a long chain protein and, therefore, cannot penetrate the skin. At best, collagen treatments work as a barrier against transepidermal water loss.
Proteins must be broken down by digestion and other processes into smaller units called amino acids in order to be lized by the body. Because of this, proteins used in topical skin care products have to be simplified to enable them to penetrate and perform.
The miracle of these new anti-aging ingredients is that they are synthesized small chain peptides capable of penetrating the skin and triggering a high development of the dermal matrix. They contain molecules that are re-engineered from amino acids, and, by binding one amino acid onto another, they form a chain that is short enough to penetrate the epidermis. They then can build and repair the skin efficiently.
These short chain proteins (peptides) are designed from different configurations of the 20 standard amino acids important to the body?s functions. Each type of configuration triggers a specific response. A peptide is any of various natural or synthetic compounds containing two or more amino acids linked by the carboxyl group amino acid to the amino group of another.
Some of the newly synthesized peptides were assembled to create a healing and reapir response in the skin?s dermis by stimulating the collagen I, collagen III and elastin fibroblasts, as well as developing fibronectin (FN) and glucosaminoglycans (GAGs). In formulations for skin care products, this stimulation does the following,
?\tsupports the healing and repair response.
?\tAids in increased sin thickness
?\tRefines the appearance of wrinkles.
?\tEvens skin texture and tone
?\tPrepares the skin for maximized results from clinical and medical treatment
All of these benefits an be obtained in products that are formulated in order to produce significant results without the necessity of a lower, more irritating product pH. Peptides also can be used in acid formulations, such as peels. Home-care products featuring these ingredients generally are applied twice daily and are formulated with antioxidants; highly efficient moisturizer, such as sodium hyaluronate; and other anti-aging ingredients, such as co-enzyme Q10 and DNA/RNA repair actives.
The list of available peptides is growing, including the following, listed in order of popularity:
Acetyl hexapeptide-3 ? diminishes creases and wrinkles by preventing the signal protein, catecholamine, from connecting to the cell. This fosters the triggering of muscle contraction without paralysis, allowing natural expression and movement within the target area.
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 ? noticeably increases skin thickness and improves the appearance of aging skin. It also can stimulate the production of collagen IV fibroblasts.
Palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 ? these contain matrikines, which are messengers of cutaneous restructuringand repair. They activate the neosyntesis of extracellular matrix macromolecules to combat wrinkles.
Ceramide 2, PEG 10 rapeseed sterols and palmitoyl oligopeptide. -These ingredients stimulate cell communication, resulting in the repair of age-related skin damage.
Tetrapeptide-3 ? markedly suppresses the production of interleukins?particularly IL6?the chemical messengers that trigger the skin?s acute inflammatory response.
Oxido reducatses, soy peptides and hydrolyzed rice bran extract ? improve microcirculation, which increases oxygen supply to tissues, in addition to strengthening and protecting the integrity of the skin?s collagen and elastin. They inhibit elastase and collagenase through this activity. Free radicals are minimized, as well as the inflammation they cause.
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 ? when combined with oxido reductases/soy peptides/hydrolyzed rice bran extract, this peptide noticeably reduces puffiness and bags under the eyes.
Despite the marketing claims, no product or ingredient is perfect. Peptides do contribute highly positive scientifically recognized results. However, there are realities that must be known.
?\tthey take time
?\tpeptides are specific ?for different areas of the face
?\tthey are not forever
?\tPeptides hae percentage requirements (must contain 3 ? 5% palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 in order to product notable benefits; Acetyl hexapeptide-3 must constitute at least 10% of a product.)