Keep away from PEG ( PEG-40 to PEG 200 ) and ~ethanolamine ( mono - or di~) containing formulas, AND obviously any acidic ( AHA or Citric or Ascorbic Acid ) should not be used after skin reactions. Also avoid vit E acetate, which may deposit acetic acid into the skin, get tocotrienol caps.
Skip the Glycol section :
Better guidance to younger skin types is imperative, DO NOT jump in with
both feet with any mixture at full strength. Even Rose Hip oil should be diluted with any available oil (Avocado, Olive. Meadowfoam is great to add)
Make sure your Butylene Glycol is odorless, it is internally metabolized in the citric acid cycle,
Butylene glycol is rapidly absorbed through any tissue, including the skin. It is rapidly metabolized to gamma-hydroxybutyric acid in animals and humans. Gamma-hydroxybutyric acid is a naturally occurring chemical found in the brain and peripheral tissues of humans. Gamma-hydroxybutyric acid is also rapidly metabolized into succinate through the tricarboxylic acid cycle within the body. Given in high doses, a neuromodulator effect can be seen.4 However, in the small doses used as a solvent in pharmaceuticals and nutritionals, there are no known side effects. In water-based products, a concentration of 0.5% butylene glycol, as a solvent, would be safe for topical use. I will look into side reactions for high dose cases.
Now for Propylene Glycol :
# Ethylene glycol ingestion first affects the central nervous system (CNS). After a characteristic latent period, signs of inebriation may be followed by serious illness and even death, caused by toxic metabolites.
# Propylene glycol, which is much less toxic than ethylene glycol, is metabolized to compounds that are normal constituents of the citric acid cycle. This is one sites opinion. Now look at a 2nd opinion :
According to goldenbutterfly.net/harmful_ingredients.htm
Propylene Glycol (PG): Propylene Glycol serves as a Humectant - a substance that helps to retain moisture content. It is also a wetting agent and solvent, so it is used by many cosmetic manufacturers to facilitate the process of dissolving and combining ingredients. Propylene Glycol is widely used in skin cream, and many other personal care products. Propylene Glycol is also one of the key ingredients in embalming fluid, anti-freeze, brake fluid, hydraulic fluid, de-icer, paints and floor wax. The Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for Propylene Glycol clearly states: "Implicated in contact dermatitis, kidney damage and liver abnormalities; Can inhibit skin cell growth in human tests, and can damage cell membranes causing rashes, dry skin and surface damage." The MSDS also cautions: Acute Effects: "May be harmful by inhalation, ingestion or skin absorption. May cause eye irritation, skin irritation. Exposure can cause Gastrointestinal disturbances, Nausea, Headache, Vomiting and Central Nervous System depression." Propylene Glycol is toxic, and it will actually retards your skin's ability to maintain normal cellular regeneration.
If you rub a little P.G. on you hands, they get quite warm .... Hmmm.
tried Glycerin to dissolve Ferulic Acid ? 10% alcohol may help but use
95% ethanol , and by the time it heats on the waterbath, its gone.
use 50% of the Glycerin to start for higher alcohol, then add balance.
OK, would you prefer some science on the vit C & Ferulic acid ? will let U know when I have found a simple procedure ...
1. Ascorbic acid in water will have a pH of 1.5 , which will sensitise skin.
2. There are many Vit C esters which are more sensible, insofar as being oil soluble and having an ideal affinity with the skin matrix, acid is released slow
ie: an ester allows the vitamin to be bioavailabe much longer (12+hrs) and
because its oil soluble is more stable and deeper penetrating.
3. Tocotrienols are a superior vit E antioxidant synergist that should be incorporated. More on that later.
4. Here is an excerpt from an article which should help : Enjoy.
The Vitamin C Ester in our CE Ferulic acid is made of L-ascorbic acid joined with a fatty acid creating an ester bond. Our Vitamin C Ester in CE Ferulic acid stimulates collagen production plus it is fat-soluble, making it stable, non-acidic, completely nonirritating to the skin and offers maximum protection against free radicals at the precise spot that they do the most damage; the outside of the cell.
The Vitamin C Ester in our CE Ferulic acid also displays greater antioxidant activity in the skin cells than ascorbic acid does, and performs this vital task at lower doses. In fact, compared with ascorbic acid,the Vitamin C Ester in our CE Ferulic acid delivers 8 times higher levels of Vitamin C activity (Source: Journal of Cosmetic Science, January-February 2004, pages 1-12).
The Vitamin C Ester in CE Ferulic acid is more stable in topical solutions than its water-soluble cousin, Ascorbic Acid. This allows our Vitamin C Ester in CE Ferulic acid to maintain its efficacy while it delivers its incomparable benefits. Also, our fat soluble Vitamin C Ester in CE Ferulic will not produce the negative rash reactions that occur when products containing water-soluble ascorbic acid are applied to the skin.
CE Ferulic acid serum uses Vitamin E in the form of Tocotrienol which is 40 times stronger and more effective at repairing skin damage than traditional Tocopherol Vitamin E (Source: Journal of Nutrition, February 2001, pages 369-373). The Vitamin E from Tocotrienol in CE Ferulic acid is an active ingredient that has free radical scavenging, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties.
While the combination of vitamin C, E and ferulic acid appears to have clear advantages over vitamin C alone, a number of limitations remain. First, even though combining vitamin C with vitamin E and ferulic acid makes it more stable, some degradation still occurs and may still be a significant factor depending on the usage and storage conditions. Second, vitamin C is acidic and may be irritating for people with sensitive skin, especially at relatively high concentrations required for stimulating collagen production. There are alternatives allowing to get at least some of the benefits of stable topical vitamin C while minimizing skin irritation. This was covered in points 1 - 3.
