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Need help with simple niacinamide serum

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#24 ·
DragoN said:
1. Easy.
2. Yes or no, if you don't want to.
3. No, need Retinol, Vitamin A acetate.
4. 0.1%- 2% depends on YOUR skin tolerance.
5. Same as #2.
6. Yes. but not too much over 25% or you get the face pull thing going on. Depends on the ambient humidity.

Retinol 2% gel/ serum with B3/NAG and algae extract.

B3 5%
NAG 2%
DEX/ B5 3%
Sea Emollient 25%
H20 31.5%
Retinol 2%
HA 1% hi mol wt. 30%
Vit E water sol. 1%
phenoxy 0.5%

1. Make up the HA1% before hand.
2. Get your powders into solution
3. Add B5 and stir till all incorporated.
4. Add the HA and Sea emollient and blend till homogeneous
5. Add preservative. Blend.

Done.
Click to expand...
ok, you are awesome dragon. seriously...i'm frickin thrilled that a cosmetic company hasn't stolen you away as a formulator...dawns on me now and again how all of these recipes would cost $$$ if it came with a high end label.

my question: wondering if i could use a ready made retinol product for this serum. i have afirm 3x on hand (equivalent to 2% strength, i believe).
 
#25 ·
Image
Thank you Jules00

I have a different motivation than a cosmetics formulator. I want to stop the hands of time and turn back the clock....I don't care too much what it looks and feels like...I want results. Fortunately, mother nature has tons of lovelies to work with that are both directly beneficial to my old hide and feel nice at the same time
Image

AFIRM 3X


Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Emulsifying Wax, Glycerin, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Acrulates Copolymer, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Benzyl Alcohol, Cyclomethicone, Bisabolol, Retinol,Stearic Acid, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, PEG-10 Soya Sterol, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Triethanolamine, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, BHT, Ascorbyl Palmitate.
Quote: Originally Posted by

my question: wondering if i could use a ready made retinol product for this serum. i have afirm 3x on hand (equivalent to 2% strength, i believe).


The ingredients in that are very simple. Too many fillers for my preference. No matter how you tried to incorporate the others, you will dilute the Retinol concentration. It could be done...but you will sacrifice the Retinol %.

The price on that is not bad. $40.00 for 30 grams. Better than the high end hoohoo with bodiddly for actives present and fluffed up with fillers of uselessness.
Quote: Originally Posted by

dawns on me now and again how all of these recipes would cost $$$ if it came with a high end label.


DIY is a high end label!!! It's completely unavailable and very rarely to be purchased, and only if the formulator feels like it. Exclusivity of the highest order.
Image
And it can be tailored for your specific skin type, needs and preferences. *sweet* That is IF you DIY it...but if you are lucky and find a willing formulator, that is another story, then I expect them to zing a reasonable amount for the Time involved, Still a far more potent product in the end than any market available label.

Walk on the Wild side....you'll not go back to the shop for your skin care needs.
 
#26 ·
Quote: Originally Posted by

I have a different motivation than a cosmetics formulator. I want to stop the hands of time and turn back the clock....I don't care too much what it looks and feels like...I want results. Fortunately, mother nature has tons of lovelies to work with that are both directly beneficial to my old hide and feel nice at the same time


A fancy exotic sounding name helps sell overpriced useless mainstream products = 0 results I'm using Ise Oil at the moment sourced from the tropical forests of Iceland very rare
Image
used by Dolphinz and the natives for centuries
Image
 
#30 ·
Quote: Originally Posted by

A fancy exotic sounding name helps sell overpriced useless mainstream products = 0 results I'm using Ise Oil at the moment sourced from the tropical forests of Iceland very rare
Image
used by Dolphinz and the natives for centuries
Image



Image


Fawnie, I think it's seal oil...but I could be wrong...although to be fair, it's not Emu chicken fat for the face. And I could be wrong there too. But what we do know for absolute certainty is that Ise Oil is very very rare and uber expensive and therefore we are certain that it works at erasing the lines and wrinkles and the pretty pdf tells me so, so it must be true.
 
#32 ·
DragoN said:
Image


Fawnie, I think it's seal oil...but I could be wrong...although to be fair, it's not Emu chicken fat for the face. And I could be wrong there too. But what we do know for absolute certainty is that Ise Oil is very very rare and uber expensive and therefore we are certain that it works at erasing the lines and wrinkles and the pretty pdf tells me so, so it must be true.
Click to expand...
Linky for the Ise Oil Pdf please
Image
seal oil is probably very compatible with the skin don't sound as exotic as Emu though and there is probably a lot more of the Emu stuff available easier to rear n catch etc
Image
 
#33 ·
Ahhhhhh....well....
Image

In the above photo of our test subjects you will notice the wrinkles and pigmentation issues that are common amongst the elderly, However after using Ise Oil for only TWO weeks , the transformation from wrinkles galore to :
Image


Sleek and Lovely, YOUTH in a bottle ISE OIL...and you may even lose some of the lard of age as well. YMMV
 
#34 ·
There used to be a Turtle Oil sunscreen with... yep ... turtle oil in it. Until they discovered the little buggers were becoming extinct because of it. It was as thick as 10W30 motor oil and smelled about as nice but it gave the most beautiful tan in the Keys of Florida! <---why I use anti-ageing products now.
Image




 
#38 ·
DragoN said:
Image
Thank you Jules00

I have a different motivation than a cosmetics formulator. I want to stop the hands of time and turn back the clock....I don't care too much what it looks and feels like...I want results. Fortunately, mother nature has tons of lovelies to work with that are both directly beneficial to my old hide and feel nice at the same time
Image

AFIRM 3X


Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Emulsifying Wax, Glycerin, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Acrulates Copolymer, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Benzyl Alcohol, Cyclomethicone, Bisabolol, Retinol,Stearic Acid, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, PEG-10 Soya Sterol, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Triethanolamine, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, BHT, Ascorbyl Palmitate.
The ingredients in that are very simple. Too many fillers for my preference. No matter how you tried to incorporate the others, you will dilute the Retinol concentration. It could be done...but you will sacrifice the Retinol %.

The price on that is not bad. $40.00 for 30 grams. Better than the high end hoohoo with bodiddly for actives present and fluffed up with fillers of uselessness.
DIY is a high end label!!! It's completely unavailable and very rarely to be purchased, and only if the formulator feels like it. Exclusivity of the highest order.
Image
And it can be tailored for your specific skin type, needs and preferences. *sweet* That is IF you DIY it...but if you are lucky and find a willing formulator, that is another story, then I expect them to zing a reasonable amount for the Time involved, Still a far more potent product in the end than any market available label.

Walk on the Wild side....you'll not go back to the shop for your skin care needs.
Click to expand...
hmm, with all those fillers, and a reduction in the 2% strength, probably not worth it to diy b3 and all the other nice ingredients into it. i keep breaking out from store bought anything lately and i'm thinking that it has to be sensitivities to chemicals.

i would like to diy this recipe at some point though. really liking all the lovely things in it. i need something for nights that i don't want to use RA.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
DragoN said:
Evaluation of superoxide scavenging ac... [Free Radic Res Commun. 1993] - PubMed - NCBI
Have you got the extract? I haven't found it for purchase.

What I can help you with is the basic B3 gel...and you can get fancy with N-acetyl D glucosmine as they work very well together.

You WILL NEED A SCALE....no ifs ands or buts.

It's easy though.

Re: Aloe...I am not keen on it...but you can use it. I don't prefer the feeling on my skin, no other reason.

I like algae extracts for many reasons including this one in particular:
HÃa9matologie

B3 soluble in water.

Really Basic Gel

HA powder 1%
B3 5%
Distilled Water 93%
Preservative 1%

You're off and running after that.

Sterilize everything. Use an alcohol...allow to air dry.
Click to expand...
Hey DragoN, need you... Coming back to our original conversation about that basic niancinamide gel. Turns out I might have rosacea/rosacea like flare-ups and I read a lot about how stuff with niacinamide and aloe vera helps the darn redness, so I want to make a simple gel that will alleviate these symptoms somewhat and I want to make it similar to the metazene one.
Inrgeds of that one are:
de-ionized water
aloe barbadensis leaf juice
niacinamide 5 %
hamamaelis virginiana (got a source for that one)
glycerin
proplene glycol
carbomer
TEA

there's also parabens, which of course i dont want to include - I wanna toss everything that irritates, so id need your help with suggested tweaking of ingredients - what i want to leave there is the B3, aloe, and hammammelis extract.
I just need a little guidance as to gram amounts cause im not good with percentages. Let's say i wanna make 30 grams of the stuff, how would I proceed if such a concoction is possible and what of the rest of the recipe should i drop/substitute? Sorry for all the questions but buying the metazene, if at all possible, would prolly cost me around 100 $ total so I wanna see what I can do myself in me lab. Have to put all other cosmetics on backburner till damn redness clears and this could be useful for such times.
 
#40 ·
Easy Violett,


  1. de-ionized water = X?
  2. aloe barbadensis leaf juice = Y?
  3. niacinamide/ B3= 5 %
  4. NAG= 2% <-- works well with B3
  5. hamamaelis virginiana (got a source for that one)= 5-10 %
  6. glycerin =3-5 %
proplene glycol
carbomer
TEA

^^^^^ don't need. One is a known irritant/ penetration enhancer, the other a thickener with no dermal benefits and the TEA is a pH adjustor with known potential for irritation. I use NaOH for that sort of thing, as it breaks down into water.

To thicken it nicely into more of a gel. Get the B3/ NAG into solution first, and then add sclerotium gum or Hyaluronic acid. Sclerotium has the beta glucans and is becoming quite prominent in wound dressings. Very soothing and has a lovely feel. HA we all know about. <--- those additions will make it nicely thick and not sticky. You can play with the thickness with the sclerotium gum more so than with HA.

Aloe leaf juice and water only with the rest will be quite runny. X and Y are there for you to decide minimum 10% to get the B3 into solution or a tad more. I am familiar with the aloe gel, which is a solid gel, not the leaf juice. Is the juice thickish?
Quote: Originally Posted by

Sorry for all the questions but buying the metazene, if at all possible, would prolly cost me around 100 $ total so I wanna see what I can do myself in me lab.


Image
expensive!! You can do better for yourself in your lab for far less $$$.

Hope that makes sense.
 
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