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Sepiwhite recipe???

23K views 21 replies 11 participants last post by  palemermaid  
#1 ·
I am going to buy skinwhite MSH powder from makingcosmetics, how do I compound this powder into a lotion?

Can I simply melt it into a base lotion at 80oC/176oF? Could I use a normal lotion not a base lotion

How do I get the right pH level for it? Optimal pH <5 or >6.2 for best incorporation into formulas.

Also is skinwhite BLE sepiwhite? The same thing as skinwhite MSH but just in liquid form?

What is a oil phase of formula?


I will also add Niacinamide powder to it aswell
 
#3 ·
Here's the recipe from making cosmetics:

http://www.makingcosmetics.com/sampl...nylalanine.pdf

If you want to add Niacinamide in the recipe, you'll have to add it in phase A (water phase) since it's water soluble...make sure you adjust the % of distilled water...

To lower the pH level, you can add lactic acid..but make sure that all your actives are in the correct pH (you can find it on the making cosmetics website) in the cream/lotion to be effective...
 
#7 ·
According to the making cosmetics site, the optimal pH for sepiwhite MSH is 5-6.2 and for niacinamide it's 6-7.5...So, for your formulation a pH of 6 will be best, so that both actives can work best...
 
#8 ·
If I did pH 5.5 would the niacinamide become inactive?
If I did pH 6.0 for the combination, would the sepiwhite become a bit less effective than being pH of 5-5.5 or will it have the same effectiveness as being at a pH 5-5.5?
 
#11 ·
@amina if you did pH 5.5 it would not work as 'well' and you wouldnt be getting the full benefit of the niacinimide. So best to try and aim for pH of 6 to be on the safe side.

You can increase or lower the pH of the formulations with adjusters, such as citric acid (to lower) or EDTA to increase.

These are also available from makingcosmetics.

@prettyReal sepiwhite is actually Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine. Its also on MC here: Undecylenoyl phenylalanine and this is the one you need.
 
#12 ·
@amina if you did pH 5.5 it would not work as 'well' and you wouldnt be getting the full benefit of the niacinimide. So best to try and aim for pH of 6 to be on the safe side.

You can increase or lower the pH of the formulations with adjusters, such as citric acid (to lower) or EDTA to increase.

These are also available from makingcosmetics.

@prettyReal sepiwhite is actually Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine. Its also on MC here: Undecylenoyl phenylalanine and this is the one you need.
This is super helpful! Thanks
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#14 ·
I am going to buy skinwhite MSH powder from makingcosmetics, how do I compound this powder into a lotion?

Can I simply melt it into a base lotion at 80oC/176oF? Could I use a normal lotion not a base lotion

No. You mess up the lotion base like that.

How do I get the right pH level for it? Optimal pH <5 or >6.2 for best incorporation into formulas.

Use citric acid or lactic acid to lower it, or you can use TEA to increase it. You need something to test the pH also. Strips are fine if you want ballpark measurements.

Also is skinwhite BLE sepiwhite? The same thing as skinwhite MSH but just in liquid form?

Skinwhite BLE is bearberry extract with MAP (a form of vitamin C). Sepiwhite MSH is a modified short peptide. They are not the same.

What is a oil phase of formula?

The phase with the oil
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If you're making a lotion from scratch, you start off with a water phase (and whatever is soluble in water) and an oil phase (and water is soluble in oil). Sepiwhite is soluble in oil, hence, it needs to be in the oil phase.






I will also add Niacinamide powder to it aswell

Oh geez.
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Please do research before posting a topic.
 
#16 ·
^^ thank you DIYDiva & NinaSky! i honestly had no idea what the chemical's true name was, hey do other of you by chance use this ingredient or have experience with it?
I havent heard people talking about it on here at all lately
 
#19 ·
I used the search feature and went through hundreds of posts to get a verdict on SepiWhite. Does it lighten well? What is the best percentage to use? I know the recommneded is 2% and I read where someone said they made 8% which burnt their skin too much.

Amina how did your compunding with Sepiwhite turn out?
 
#21 ·
i don't think so. lotion is WATER based they will not mix completely
you could add it to a body BUTTER, or a carrier oil like jojoba which would absorb fast.. sweet almond oil has some lightening properties.

i'm adding it to shea butter and using it just like that.