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The Beginner's Guide to Skin Lightening - NEWBIES START HERE!

102K views 139 replies 39 participants last post by  misslovely22  
#1 ·
Introduction

When it comes to matters of the heart, what something means is just as important as what it is. Skin lightening is not skin-deep! It suggests that there may be beliefs that need to be explored before you begin your journey. What do you hope to gain from lighter skin? Love? Acceptance? Popularity? Beauty?

Unfortunately, we live in a world where looks do matter, and anybody who says otherwise is living in a fantasy. Lighter skinned individuals are perceived as more attractive in general and enjoy certain privileges inaccessible to our equivalently beautiful, darker counterparts (which, candidly, ticks me off). It is a sad truth, and while it has to change, you're not here to talk about that, are you? Whatever your reasons are, skin lightening is and always should be a personal aesthetic goal. If you do start this journey, do it for yourself — do it because you WANT to — not because of how other people will perceive you afterwards. Ultimately, others' opinions should never dictate the course of your life or your happiness.

Steve Jobs said it best in his famous 2005 commencement speech at Stanford:

Steve Jobs at his commencement speech said:
Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma - which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of other's opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary.
Don’t let the noise of other's opinions drown out your own inner voice.

Without further ado, let's begin! Are you with me? Are you ready? You're about to read the most comprehensive guide to skin lightening ever created.


Step 0: What’s Your Shade? + Setting Goals

And so your journey begins. Before you even start, you need to make a commitment to yourself. Skin lightening, like tanning, is a lifestyle choice, only instead of bombarding yourself at a UV tanning machine, you're sticking to a somewhat initially daunting regimen, or a process to follow which will slowly but surely help you attain your goals.

Speaking of goals, what shade are you right now? What’s your goal shade (how light do you want to be)? In the skin lightening community, we often refer to shades as a measure of skin color. There are many ways to measure your shade, everything from skin color charts to make-up foundations, the common ones being the vague Fitzpatrick scale and the popular MAC Studio foundation color scheme, both of which you don't HAVE to know, but we tend to use them often at SCT.

When you're trying to achieve your aesthetic goals, skin color can be very difficult to track – some days you’ll feel darker (other times you actually will be darker) and other days you'll feel or actually be lighter. Skin lightening looks a lot like this:



Like a rollercoaster. So, it's easy to feel frustrated or discouraged at times, which is exactly why it's time to make a commitment now. Get out a sheet of paper, or open Microsoft Word, Google Docs, notepad, a sticky note–whatever—and then repeat after me: "I, _________, commit to myself, to my success, into making myself the most attractive and best version of myself, not only in skin lightening but in everything that I put my mind to." Yes, that's a big commitment, but you have to make it. Some days, you might feel extremely lethargic, like you would rather do ANYTHING, even sit in class through a horrifyingly, mind-numbingly boring lecture, than go through another day of your strict regimen again. You have to make a commitment to bettering yourself now—and not just in aesthetics, but everything that you put your mind to. Life is so much more than skin lightening. Make that commitment now before you continue reading. Then, stick that paper on your mirror so that you're reminded of your commitment every day. You're not going to see results if you don't stick to a STRICT regimen.

If you look at that sexy nerdy chart above, you might be wondering, "What does it mean when the left axis says ‘Abs. Change in SCI?’ What is SCI?" (Or, perhaps you just noticed it—if so, stop zoning out! :) ). It stands for Skin Color Index, or SCI for short. What does it mean? Just as you step on a scale to measure your body weight when dieting, the SCI scale tracks your skin color when lightening (or tanning, if you prefer!).

The optional (but highly recommended) first step is to measure your starting SCI. The easiest way to do this is to grab my free Shadey Scale app (which has other neat features too like real-time UV index tracking which will help you in your lightening journey). You will take a few pictures of skin patches on your face, neck, upperside of arm, underside of arm, your belly, and your leg. Using this information, Shadey Scale's super cool AI will calculate your degree of unevenness. Sounds fancy, but all that means is how even (or uneven) your overall skin tone is. This information is paramount to your success! (Side note: As of this writing, Shadey Scale 0.1 Alpha is out, the additional features described here are for Shadey Scale v1.0, which will be out shortly.)

So, go ahead and calculate your shade! Figure out where you stand with your SCI (this is your Shadey Score, NOT the Mac Shade guess that the app spits out). Done? Cool! Now check this out—I've calculated the Skin Color Indices (SCIs) of some famous celebrities. Every celebrity represents a particular shade (meaning every next celebrity is about one "MAC shade" darker than the previous). Who are you closest to?

{TODO: finish making SCI/Shadey Scale chart lol}

Of course, your skin color rarely stays the same over the course of a year (during the summer you may darken a little, and that's okay), and of course the celebrities above may get a tan or lighten up, so take charts like this with a grain of salt. It's more of a reference point than anything else. Anyway, now it's time to talk about goals. Generally, it's realistic to lighten no more than three to five shades beyond your birth color. What does that mean? See the lightest part of your body (be it your chest, underside of arm, or whatever color you were when you were two years old), imagine lightening a few more shades beyond that (aka, three to five celebrities to the left of the one you are). There's a genetic limit to how light you can get before you have to resort to irreversible procedures (like monobenzone therapy, which you should NEVER do unless you have vitiligo universalis and until you’ve spoken with your dermatologist and completely understand its impact to your lifestyle). Oh, and never resort to using steroids, mercury, or other harmful ingredients. Ever. Repeat after me: EVER. It's just not worth it, but we'll talk about all of this in depth soon.

So, your first step is to set realistic goals. How light do you want to become? Your goal should be realistic. I will say this: don't worry though, I work at a lab where we're researching novel ways to get beyond these limitations, but for now I'll confer upon you the wisdom of the ages (did I just say that? Who talks like that? I do!): anybody who says he/she/they can make you very light super-fast is either lying to you or giving you steroids. Real, genuine skin lightening is a lifestyle change—there is no way to magically reach your goal shade fast and permanently stay that way—yet. In fact, this process may take you well over a year or two to reach your goals.

Once you finally reach your goal, you have to keep up with your regimen (but not as strictly – this is called maintenance, which I will cover last). But for now, understand the following:


  • Skin lightening is a lifestyle change.
  • It takes time—usually well over a year.
  • You can generally get a few shades lighter than your birth color.
  • Avoid mercury like the plague.
  • Don't do roids (i.e. steroids—except under certain very specific conditions, which you’ll read about in later steps).
  • Don't use monobenzone (again, except under certain very specific conditions which you can speak with your dermatologist about).
  • Set realistic goals.
  • Use the Shadey Scale app to track your progress. The app has other nifty features that you can toggle on/off like a real-time UV index in your notification bar (you'll see why this is important next), shade tracking reminders, and a chart / history so you can visually see your progress. (This is Shadey Scale v1, right now you have access to Shadey Scale v0.1 alpha.)

Remember: you've committed to achieving your personal best in everything that you put your mind to. Are you ready to start acting on that commitment? The time is now.

More posts incoming! Next step: good SAP, or Sun Avoidance and Protection, coming up!
 
#2 ·
Step 1: Sun Avoidance and Protection (SAP) – The Dark Side to the Sun

Starting today, vampires and werewolves are your role models. Just kidding. But seriously, if you've wandered throughout your entire life never even having heard of the word "sunblock" (what did I just say? Sunbeam (you Pokemon Go'ers)? Sunkist? Spongebob? NO. Sunblock), it's absolutely mandatory that you change your habits now. Not tomorrow. But now.

The sun is probably the single largest cause of everything from premature aging (called photoaging) to that crazy permatan (i.e. a tan that appears to never go away) that you might be rockin’ right now.

First, before we get to that, let’s take a look at some of the plus sides to the sun. The most obvious is Vitamin D. When the sun's UVB rays strike your skin, cholesterol-related compounds in your skin turn into a preliminary form of the vitamin (source: Harvard), which is later turned into vitamin D. The other very important benefit is psychological; research shows that individuals who spend time in the sun are less prone to developing different kinds of depression (source: Journal of Environmental Health).

So, you probably don't want to become a vampire or werewolf. Serious. But, when it comes to skin lightening, the sun is probably your worst enemy—worse than your crazy pet cat that was clandestinely plotting your demise. The sun is responsible for everything from cancer to hyperpigmentation (like that permatan!). So, if your goal is skin lightening, it is extremely important that you practice Sun Avoidance and Protection, or SAP for short. What that means is to limit your exposure to the sun. When you go outside, wear sunblock (we'll get in-depth in a sec). Wear protective clothing that limits the amount of light hitting your skin. Don't go outside when the sun is really shinin’ (generally between the hours of 10 AM to 4 PM). If you have to go outside, don't go outside without sunblock (yes, I know I said that already, but I wanted to say it again), and seek shade whenever possible.

Get into the habit of wearing sunblock before you go outside during the day. You have to wear it. It doesn't matter whether it's cloudy or it's raining. You have to wear it. UVA rays will penetrate through clouds and even the glass in your car. Just because it looks dark or cloudy outside doesn't imply that it isn't "raining" UV rays outside. The easiest way to determine whether you absolutely need sunblock or not before you go out is to look outside: if the sun is setting, then you probably won't need it. Pro tip: get the Shadey Scale app, as it will literally tell you whether you need it or not—right in the notification bar (again, Shadey Scale v1).

Without getting too much into the research, UV rays (both UVA and UVB—albeit in different ways) will trigger melanogenesis (i.e. the production of melanin in your skin—the pigments responsible for skin color). You don't really have to understand the science behind it, but here it is if you're interested. There are different types of melanin, but you are mainly concerned with eumelanin (the brown/black pigments) and pheomelanin (the pink/red pigments). The concentration of these various pigments along with chromatic shifts induced by underlying blood (in skin) will determine the various colors of skin, hair, lips, etc. found in the human population. When you lighten your skin, what you are actually doing is influencing the rate at which these pigments are produced in your melanocytes (i.e. pigment-producing cells) and perhaps even the rate at which these pigments are transferred to surrounding keratinocytes (aka melanosome transfer).

Anyway, the above paragraph basically can be summed up like so: the sun will impart a tanning response in your body and thus make it harder to lighten. This is why you need to wear sunblock before you go outside (again, get the Shadey Scale app if you haven't already—it'll make this process much simpler!) If you go outside without sunblock and spend time in the sun, it can literally undo weeks of progress. I've probably said this a thousand times but I'll say it again: get into the habit of wearing sunblock and seeking shade whenever possible. See, that text is in bold, so it has to be important, right? Again, that doesn't imply that you have to become a vampire hermit, but practice moderation—don't overdo it. The more you can avoid the sun, the better, but remember that you may need some sunlight for vitamin D and positive mental health.

You don't have to wear sunblock indoors unless you plan on sitting in front of a bright glass window (with the curtains wide open) for a significant period of time. Get into the habit of wearing clothing that covers you well (or better, specialty clothing / "UPF" clothes that blocks UV rays). This doesn't mean that you have to change up your fashion style and wear big poofy grandma sweaters all the time, but as with everything, practice moderation. If you know that you're going to be outdoors in the sun for a significant period of time, wear clothing that covers you well and apply sunblock on the exposed areas.

Now that I drilled "wear sunblock"into your head, it's time to discuss what makes a great sunblock great. But before we even get to that, do you understand the difference between sunblock and sunscreen? Many people use them interchangeably, but they are not the same.

Sunblock vs. Sunscreen. Physical vs. Chemical filters. What's the dealio? Which should I use?

When it comes to blocking UV rays, not all ingredients are created equal. A sunblock works by acting as a shield—it will physically sit on top of your skin and reflect most of the UV rays hitting it, thus preventing the rays from reaching your skin. In other words, sunblocks act as physical filters because they are usually comprised of reflective minerals like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide that act as a physical barrier. On the other hand, sunscreens work mostly by absorption—UV rays that penetrate your skin are absorbed by chemicals like avobenzone, and thus these are often referred to as chemical filters. Both physical and chemical filters will confer UVB protection to varying degrees. Here is a great pictorial table by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) from their sunscreen guide (which you should read sometime!) that shows how well the ingredients block UVA and UVB rays.



As you can see, zinc oxide is the only filter in the list above that offers the broadest spectrum coverage for a single ingredient (i.e. protecting against a large portion of the UV spectrum). Moreover, physical filters like zinc oxide are also generally safer than chemical filters (there will be another post comparing these in-depth if a lot of people are interested). But, hold your horses! That doesn't mean that you should run out and buy a zinc oxide sunblock right now. There is a downside that you should be aware of—some people have allergies to zinc oxide (although it's extremely rare) and it also tends to leave a really noticeable white cast that is quite difficult to hide. (You can hide the white cast by getting a sunblock that is tinted, but avoid tints that use iron oxides as those may interfere with your lightening products in the Lightening step.)

Further, you can also opt for a sunblock that contains both physical and chemical filters. Research shows that there is a synergistic effect between physical and chemical filters. In other words, your sunblock can have both physical filters and chemical filters for better broad-spectrum protection, but at the cost of potential chronic health problems—research shows that some chemical filters may act as endocrine disruptors, and since chemical filters are absorbed into the skin, the long-term effects are currently unknown—but you be the judge of what you want. I personally opt for a sunblock containing Zinc Oxide 14.5% or higher + chemical filters.


On the Matter of SPF


Without getting too much into the research (if you're interested, there will be another article on it), but did you know that SPF 100 is not that much better than SPF 30? In fact, SPF 100 will only block 2% more UVB rays than SPF 30 (i.e. SPF 100 blocks 99% of UVB rays whereas SPF 30 blocks nearly 97% of UVB rays). Whether this additional protection is worth the financial investment is your decision, but health agencies like the American Academy of Dermatologists recommend a sunscreen offering at least SPF 30.
 
#3 ·
So, to summarize this first step in your journey:

  • The sun has a dark side: it is responsible for everything from photoaging to permatanning.
  • Sun exposure makes it difficult to lighten; practice sun avoidance behaviors.
  • Wear sunblock! Again, wear sunblock.
  • Wearing sunsblock daily may lower vitamin D production in your skin. Ask your doctor about taking vitamin tablets if you feel that it is necessary.
  • Sunblocks usually contain physical filters like zinc oxide whereas sunscreens usually contain chemical filters like avobenzone. However, in the market, the terms are used interchangeably, so check the active ingredients on the back label!
  • Physical filters are generally safer than chemical filters.
  • Zinc oxide offers the broadest spectrum coverage for a single ingredient.
  • When physical and chemical filters are used together, the effect is synergistic.
  • Physical filters often tend to leave a noticeable white cast. To mitigate this, you may opt for a tinted version, but ensure that you avoid ones that have iron oxides.
  • I recommend finding a sunscreen with zinc oxide as its main ingredient. Aim for at least 14.5% zinc oxide (more the better). If it also has chemical filters, verify that the chemical filter is safe.
  • Again, never go outside during the daytime without sunblock (regardless of how cloudy or raining it is). Wear sunblock.
  • You don't need to wear sunblock indoors unless you plan on sitting directly in front of a well-lit, wide-open window for a prolonged period of time.

Next up, Exfoliation. :)
 
#4 ·
Step 2: Exfoliation – And Why It’s Paramount to Your Success

Now that you’ve learned how important sunblock is to your success, it’s time to finally build your skincare lightening regimen! There are four stages that need to be considered. The stages are: Face A.M., Body A.M., Face P.M., and Body P.M., all of which will be slightly different. You need to treat your face and body as separate units because the skin on the face is often more sensitive than the skin on your leg, for example. Moreover, due to the influence of the sun, the products that may be used will vary with time, hence the A.M. and P.M. classifications.

When you used the Shadey Scale app, what was your degree of unevenness? The larger your unevenness degree, the more Step 2 (exfoliation) is important. Regardless, exfoliation is a crucial step for a number of reasons. First, it is the step that will even out your skin tone all over your body. You will progress to the lightest color in your body (maybe even a little lighter) all over. Imagine being your lightest natural color everywhere—on your face, arms, neck, chest, stomach, legs, glutes, etc. Depending on how hard you go at this step, this process may take anywhere between a few months to years. Note that you will work on all the steps (not just Step 2) simultaneously, as the steps work synergistically to speed up your progress. For example, exfoliation will enable your lightening products (more on that later) to penetrate your skin better.

So, what exactly is exfoliation? It is a process by which you shed the outermost layer of your skin, through both natural processes and through chemical and mechanical means (more on that in a second). This layer, called the stratum corneum, is comprised of biologically dead (but still active) cells called corneocytes. The important thing to note is that this layer functions as a protective barrier against the hazards of the external environment. As you exfoliate, you shed this outermost layer, and thus weaken the protective barrier and also inadvertently eliminate important amino acids and lipids (ceramides, cholesterols, etc.) from your skin. (You will learn how to combat this downside later in the Skin Building step.) Despite these downsides, exfoliation helps reduce the phenotypic effects of aging and gives your skin a radiant glow.

As your body produces colored pigment (called melanin), it is packaged into tiny packets (called melanosomes) and then donated to adjacent keratinocytes (this process being referred to as melanosome transfer). More informally, when this process is sped up, this is called tanning. (Note, if you have dark skin, you will tan—it is a common misnomer that dark skinned people don’t tan—in fact you tan more—which is also why you’re probably rocking a permatan right now.) Why does your body do this? These packets protect your cells’ DNA from the sun’s damaging UV rays. Do you see why the use of broad-spectrum sunblock is important? If you use sunblock, you are externally providing UV protection, and thus you reduce your body’s own demand to produce melanin. The size and distribution of these melanin packets determine how dark your tan is.

Very simply, when you exfoliate through chemical and mechanical means (more on that in a sec, promise!), you slowly remove built up melanin content from your skin, and thus lighten. (This process is far, far more complicated than that.) Eventually, you’ll reach a point where the melanin in your skin is produced and later degraded/removed at around the same rate. This is your baseline color, and at your lightest, the so-called birth color. On the flip side, when melanin is produced and/or distributed faster than it is degraded/removed, you tan, and when it builds up over several years (as a result of sun exposure), it results in a tan that doesn’t seem to go away (a permatan). Exfoliating can combat a tan or permatan. (This is a very simple description and the actual process involves a lot of different things, but you get the idea.)

That begs the question: how does one exfoliate? There are several ways which can be broadly grouped into two categories: chemical and mechanical. Chemical exfoliators function as a controlled injury to the epidermis by breaking corneodesmosomal bonds (just a fancy way of saying “promoting desquamation,” which is yet another fancy way of basically saying “shedding more skin”). The removal of the outer layer compacts the stratum corneum and stimulates cell renewal, which ultimately functions to even out the distribution of melanin. In other words, poof goes your tan. Mechanical exfoliators on the other hand work by physically scraping off skin– imagine a scrub/brush, loofah, microdermabrasion, Korean Italy towel (KIT), etc. (we’ll talk about these soon). You don’t have to pick one or the other—in fact, combining both chemical and mechanical methods can speed up progress—but one must take extra precaution not to over-exfoliate, as that may hypersensitize the skin and trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), risks which we will discuss soon.

Now, it’s time to make a decision. The first question is: how quickly do you want to get rid of your (perma)tan? Keep in mind that while taking your time is slower, it is far more gentle on your skin, and thus the risks are significantly lower. I always recommend a gentler, slower approach over a speedier one (and only opting for harsher measures when the gentler approach fails to provide results), but ultimately it is your decision.

Risks of Exfoliation

Exfoliation can be a safe and important aspect of your skincare regimen. However, some people (for whatever reason) will take things too far, causing serious complications where medical intervention becomes necessary. Don’t be one of those people.

Exfoliation can be tricky because it’s sometimes hard to tell whether you’re under-exfoliating or over-exfoliating. If you under-exfoliate, you won’t see results. If you over-exfoliate, you may damage the skin’s integrity, in which case your body may try to compensate for the damage by triggering an inflammatory reaction (i.e. dermatitis—the skin becomes hypersensitive and red), often resulting in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)—the result being patches of significantly darker skin that may take months to undo. Worse, if you opt for the harsher measures and royally screw up, you may end up with severe chemical burns, which require immediate medical attention (at which point skin lightening would be the least of your concerns). That’s not all. Exfoliation reduces the concentration of important amino acids and lipids in the skin.

This is why, as with everything else, you must practice moderation. Start with a gentler approach and stick to it for two or three months. If you don’t see results, then up your game with tougher measures.

You will learn how to help combat these problems and help reduce risks in the very important Skin Building step.

Over-Exfoliation vs. Under-Exfoliation

Before you learn how to exfoliate, you must first learn when to exfoliate. This is an important skill to learn, for it will not only help keep you safe from damaging complications, but it will also improve the efficacy of the skin lightening products that you use (as you will see in the Lightening step).
Chemical exfoliants work by breaking down bonds, i.e. making the structural integrity weaker so that the skin is easily removed. Users with sensitive skin should exfoliate less frequently and may prefer chemical exfoliants. On the flip side, mechanical exfoliants work largely through friction—by physically sloughing off skin. Mechanical exfoliation can be used by those with oily or combination skin, men, and young adults / adolescents (teens), but in my experience, it’s often easier (and less damaging) to stick with a gentler chemical exfoliant.

If your skin is red, sensitive to the touch, and/or appears gray or thin, take two to three days off from further exfoliation and switch to Step 3, Skin Building. It is important to note that just because the skin appears dull or gray does not mean that there is “dead skin” that needs to be removed. While that may be the case some of the time, it is not the case every time. Therefore, taking days off from exfoliation is just as important as exfoliation itself. The most important skill you can learn is to “listen” to your skin. It somehow knows when you’re going too far—therefore, if you feel hesitant about applying an exfoliating lotion one night, don’t do it. Wait another 24 hours. It’s okay.
 
#5 ·
Some people eventually begin to see veins. This is normal—as you get lighter, you may begin to see veins. However, it is hard to differentiate between veins that you see as a result of lightening versus veins that you see as a result of skin thinning due to continuous exfoliation. The easiest way to avoid complications is to skin build for a period of time, and of course, talk with your dermatologist about any concerns you may have.
The harsher the method, the longer the duration you need to skin build instead of exfoliate. Skin building and exfoliation can be done at different points in the day depending on the method, but for harsher methods, it is generally wise to drop exfoliation altogether and just skin build for a period of time. In the following sections, I will go in-depth into mechanical and chemical exfoliation methods, where you will also learn about the general amount of time it is preferred to skin build between treatments.

One last thing to cover in this section: under-exfoliation. How do you know if you’re under-exfoliating? It’s hard to tell. For one thing, you will make very little (if any) progress in your lightening/evening journey. This is why Shadey Scale is so beneficial: the app is able to track minute changes to your skin color, so if you don’t make any progress for two weeks, you’ll know it’s time to ramp up your game. Get the app if you haven’t already (it’s free on Android, iOS, and even the web—you have no excuse not to get it) and get into the habit of logging on it for a few seconds daily.

Exfoliation: Finally, Building Your Regimen – Understanding the Split

Now, that we covered a lot of theory, science, and prerequisites, it’s finally time to take action and start building your regimen. You are going to split your regimen into four parts:

  • Face (A.M.): Products and procedures that you apply to the skin on your face (this includes lips, nose, forehead, cheeks, etc.), neck, and ears during the morning, right after your bath/shower.
  • Body (A.M.): Products and procedures that you apply to the skin on your body (this includes chest, stomach, legs, arms, etc.) during the morning, right after your bath/shower.
  • Face (P.M.): Products and procedures that you apply to the skin on your face (this includes lips, nose, forehead, cheeks, etc.), neck, and ears during the evening, right after your second bath/shower.
  • Body (P.M.): Products and procedures that you apply to the skin on your body (this includes chest, stomach, legs, arms, etc.) during the evening, right after your second bath/shower.

In other words, you have a four-way split, where your regimen will be different for the face/body in the morning vs. the evening. Note that you are recommended to bathe/shower twice a day—not only for hygiene purposes (which you should also be concerned about, hopefully)—but so that the products that you use during the daytime do not interfere with the products that you use at night. For example, if you’ve got your amazing sunblock on, the sunblock may act as a protective barrier against your exfoliating products. You need to thoroughly wash it all out in the bath/shower so that your exfoliating + lightening products can penetrate better.

You can keep track of your regimen on a private journal, on the Shadey Scale v1 app, and/or on a public bulletin board like SCT! I recommend sharing your progress and being motivated by like-minded people, so create a thread on here so you can get feedback! If you are a product junkie and end up using too many products, it can be hard to tell what’s working and what isn’t. (We'll get to layering in the Lightening section.) That's why it's a good idea to post a thread on here with your regimen.

Chemical Exfoliation

The skin on your face is sometimes more sensitive than the skin on your arm for example, so products that will work well on the body may be too harsh on the face. It’s not that you can’t use body-formula products on the face (you can, and sometimes it may even be warranted), but body products are generally stronger or have an oilier formulation that can result in acne breakouts, clogged pores, and/or pimples. If your skin is sensitive, then you probably should obtain a gentler product formulated for the face (the plus side is that these are also often designed to be used under make-up).

There are several different exfoliating agents; among them are alpha hydroxy acids (such as lactic acid and glycolic acid), retinoids (such as retinol, tretinoin, etc.), and beta hydroxy acids (such as salicylic acid). The term “acid” scares some people, but acids are not a bad thing—in fact, your skin is naturally acidic (see acid mantle). Harsh acids (too concentrated or too low of a pH) are usually the culprits when it comes to chemical burns. Anyway, all three categories will induce exfoliation, but the results can be varying (try out all three and see which responds best to your skin).
Salicylic acid (a beta hydroxy acid) is lipid soluble and thus can penetrate and unclog oily sebum-filled pores, which is why it’s often preferred by those with acne-prone skin. Research has also shown it to help alleviate UV-induced sun damage. On the flip side, lactic and glycolic acids are water soluble, and often preferred by those whose main concern is only fighting photodamage. Research shows that alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like lactic and glycolic acid not only even out the skin and enable lightening products to penetrate better, but AHAs themselves can directly lower the rate at which melanin is produced, thus contributing to lighter skin.

Retinoids are Vitamin A derivatives and are much more potent at lower concentrations. They are also well-researched; in human skin models, consistent use of tretinoin is shown to reduce dysplasia and atypia, correct polarity, eliminate actinic keratoses, etc.

Anyhow, all these chemicals induce exfoliation. The higher the concentration, the stronger the resultant exfoliation (which we will examine in great depth soon). A low concentration product typically acts slowly and can be applied and worn for prolonged periods of time (e.g. all night). A higher concentration product can only be worn for a few minutes and must be washed off and neutralized (a process colloquially known as a chemical peel). We recommend sticking to low concentrations and optionally very slowly building up to chemical peels (we will examine the process in-depth soon).

These ingredients can be found in the form of low-concentration lotions/creams as well as high-concentration peeling solutions.
 
#6 ·
Chemical Exfoliation: Lotions and Creams

First, let’s explore the low-concentration lotions and creams:

  • For lactic acid lotions/creams, aim for a 12% to 14% concentration (a good product will tell you what it has on the container).
  • For glycolic acid lotions/creams, aim for a 5% to 8% concentration (a good product will tell you what it has on the container).
  • For tretinoin lotions/creams, aim for a 0.025% to 0.1% (note, these are less than 1%!). Start with 0.025% and optionally build up to 0.1% if necessary. Talk to your dermatologist for more information.
  • For salicylic acid lotions/creams, aim for a 2% to 6% concentration (a good product will tell you what it has on the container).
  • You should not be using multiple exfoliating products at the same time (basically, do not use multiple acids at once, as that may be too harsh on the skin).

Performing the Patch Test:
Before you use any exfoliating product above, it is highly recommended that you perform a patch test. Find a small region of skin on your upper arm and apply the product on that tiny region. Leave the product on for 24 hours, and if there is any reddening / swelling / allergic reaction / burn problem before the 24 hours is up, thoroughly wash the product off and discontinue use.

At these concentrations, it is typically possible to apply the product at night before going to bed and then wash it out in the morning. For some people, the ingredients may be too strong (e.g. cause stinging or pain) or result in acne breakouts, so these individuals may choose to try a lower concentration or a different ingredient. All exfoliating agents may sensitize your skin to the sun, so you must wear sunblock if you wear it during the day (well, you should be wearing sunblock regardless, but that’s beside the point). Starting out, it is usually best to start with a lower concentration and wear it every night for three to five nights in a row and then take a day or two off to skin build (you’ll learn about skin building later). As your skin becomes tolerant to the product, you may try increasing the duration of use or concentration of the product.

Assessing the Risks


If a product causes stinging or pain at any time, wash it off immediately! That should be common sense, but somehow every year somebody manages to give him/herself severe burns and trips to the E.R.! Do not be that person. Moreover, do not use any exfoliating product for a prolonged period of time without skin building, as using any acid for too long may cause burning or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Watch and listen to your skin! You should be taking days off to skin build.

Typically, exfoliating products may sometimes temporarily darken skin (this is a normal reaction), but the darkening should be minimal (no more than a shade or so). If you notice dark spots develop, you have likely burned yourself and caused post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Resolving PIH may take weeks to months, so be careful! Over time, if you notice irregularities in your skin develop (bumps, spots, changes in color or texture, pain, etc.), get evaluated by a dermatologist! Cancer is a very real concern: as you lighten your skin, you become more prone to skin cancer due to the sun (UV rays – sunblock cannot block 100% of UV radiation). Even some skin lightening and exfoliating products can cause cancer. You MUST watch your skin carefully if you choose to join this journey.
 
#121 ·
@arrow. I have clean and clear washer to tret my acne and it contains 2% salicylic acid as well as the cleanser. I would also like to use Retin A for my face. do you think It is going to be acid overloads. I wash my face with the face wash, clean with the cleanser. allow it to dry and apply the tretinoin cream.
Chemical Exfoliation: Lotions and Creams

First, let’s explore the low-concentration lotions and creams:

  • For lactic acid lotions/creams, aim for a 12% to 14% concentration (a good product will tell you what it has on the container).
  • For glycolic acid lotions/creams, aim for a 5% to 8% concentration (a good product will tell you what it has on the container).
  • For tretinoin lotions/creams, aim for a 0.025% to 0.1% (note, these are less than 1%!). Start with 0.025% and optionally build up to 0.1% if necessary. Talk to your dermatologist for more information.
  • For salicylic acid lotions/creams, aim for a 2% to 6% concentration (a good product will tell you what it has on the container).
  • You should not be using multiple exfoliating products at the same time (basically, do not use multiple acids at once, as that may be too harsh on the skin).
 
#7 ·
How to Use Exfoliating Lotions / Creams

Now that you know what some of the popular chemical exfoliants are, you’re wondering how and when to use them. You’re also wondering what products have them that you can try. We’ll cover all that in this section.

Typically, chemical exfoliants are only used in the P.M., for these products sensitize your skin to the sun. In other words, these products tend to make your skin more sensitive than it already is, and sun exposure leads to a more pronounced tanning response (even with sunblock) than if you were without the exfoliant. However, as we’ve already covered, you should be exfoliating your skin regularly, or the skin lightening products you use won’t reach the melanocytes (pigment producing cells) to work.

Typically, when you’re applying exfoliants, you need to make sure that you don’t apply them to skin that’s red / inflamed, wounded / cut, or darker from a previous application. Sometimes your skin may look gray / whitish, and this could either be dead skin or a signal that you need to drink more water. Water is extremely important and you should ensure that you are drinking all the water your body needs. When your skin is hydrated, it is not only healthier but it’ll give you a healthy glow and make you feel better overall. Your body is a machine of chemical reactions, and water plays a pivotal role in many things, especially when it comes to buffering, hydrolytic reactions, etc. The Institute of Health recommends that you drink 3 liters for men or 2.2 liters for women. If you’re looking at a standard-sized 500 mL water bottle, you need to be drinking 4-6 of them per day (which is way a LOT for me anyway). Keep in mind that a significant portion of that water also comes from the foods we eat and not just the beverages we drink (something to talk about with your nutritionist), but it’s paramount to ensure that you’re hitting your water goals, not only for skin lightening but your overall wellbeing.

That being said, if your skin feels “weird,” it should go without saying that you should skin build. Your body has an impressive network of afferent sensory receptors whose signals are processed by your brain to give you those overall feelings in your skin. If your skin is feeling sensitive from the acids you put on the night before, you don’t have to force yourself to keep up in the morning with lighteners. It’s OK (even good) to skin build. Just don’t use skin building as an excuse to ignore your regimen. Consistency and persistence wins in the skin lightening game.

Typically, you want to apply your exfoliating product at night everywhere on your body, not just your face. You want to get lighter all over, don’t you? Don’t make the classic mistake of lightening your face only and ending up with a light face and dark body (or vice versa). However, as you will find out, these exfoliating products can be expensive. That is why in the DIY section, I will show you how to make these products at home at 1/3 the cost (and large quantities so that you can dutifully apply your products everywhere). However, a lot of people are nervous or have an aversion to making things themselves, and that is perfectly OK. Just be aware that you may be spending a lot more money when you don’t have to.

Now, the exfoliant should be the first product that you apply, regardless of whether it’s a lotion, cream, or whatever. Why? Because this is the product that breaks apart bonds in your skin, enabling the products that you layer on later to be more effective. So, the first step is to take your exfoliating lotion / cream / serum and lather it on your face and body. It doesn’t have to be thick – just a little goes a long way. The goal is to make sure that the top surface of your skin is coated with the exfoliating agent. (Remember, this is at night only.) You may find that the products are too harsh on the face, and it may take some time to adjust to. That is OK. If you want, you could opt for a weaker product for the face and a stronger one for the body, but in most cases, the face eventually adjusts.

When you wake up the next morning, you may find that you are a little darker, and this is normal! Remember, your skin color is multifaceted, and if blood flow is increased to the skin, this may show up as being a little darker. However, if you find patches of hyperpigmented regions popping up (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), the products were probably too harsh and you messed up – resolving that will take you a month or two! This is why you must patch test first to be on the safe side (especially if you are new to the product).

In the very beginning, it is recommended by many members of the community, myself included, that you go on an exfoliating regimen for 4-6 weeks before you incorporate lighteners. That means apply your exfoliating product at night, every night (minus skin building days) for that time period. For example, if you are using a Lactic Acid 12% lotion (LA 12%), apply that for 3-5 nights a week (depending on how your skin tolerates it) for 4-6 weeks. The reason we recommend that you exfoliate for a few weeks before incorporating lighteners is to save you money (when you start off, chances are that the products you use won’t penetrate into your skin as well as it needs to, so you’d be wasting money).

However, if you’ve got money to spend, you still need to exfoliate in the beginning for 4-6 weeks, but you can incorporate lighteners into your regimen A.M. and P.M. (see next section for more details) minus skin building days.

What about after 4-6 weeks? After that time period, you don’t need to go as hard on the exfoliation, but you should still be applying your exfoliating products at least 1-3 nights a week. Exfoliating will help bring newer, brighter skin to the surface and give you a youthful glow (and help the lightening products penetrate of course).

Some members of this community love to go hard-core with their exfoliation, so in the next section we will explore the more intense route: chemical peels.



Chemical Peels

When your products aren’t lightening as they should (and you’re certain that the products are genuine – lots of fakes going around these days!), you probably need to pick up on the exfoliation. GET THE FREE SHADEY SCALE APP; USE IT ONCE A WEEK – you don’t have to guess whether you’re lightening or not – the app will TELL you (your SCI / shadey score should be going down if you plot your monthly progress). If you’ve plateaued or your permatan isn’t going away, you may be a candidate for chemical peels. Peels are much harsher than the gradual exfoliation route. They can severely burn you if you aren’t careful. I recommend that you speak to your dermatologist before you embark on doing a peel yourself, and be sure to ask the peel experts @moon maiden and @hipvalley and @gymrat for advice if you need any. Here is a thread on how to do a peel:

http://www.skincaretalk.com/showthre...-for-Beginners

When you go the chemical peel route, you no longer need to apply your gradual exfoliating products, as your skin will slough off (hence why we call it a “peel”), and the duration between exfoliation treatments increases significantly (depending on the peel).

I won’t cover peels in this guide, as this is mainly a guide tailored to newbies, but if you’re curious, check out the above link. Or check out the Chemical Peel Forum as its filled with lots of info on various peels.
http://www.skincaretalk.com/forumdisplay.php/91-Chemical-Peels
 
#8 ·
Lightening

Now, the part you’ve been waiting for! In this section, we are going to cover how to actually lighten your skin. When it comes to a permatan, while many go up a shade or more with exfoliation alone, sometimes it takes a little more than exfoliation to push things forward. For others, perhaps you’ve reached your lightest natural color, and you want to go beyond and get even lighter. Or, perhaps you’re stuck and can’t seem to lighten further. I’m going to address all three in the Lightening section. Grab some coffee and dig in; this is going to be a long one.

Before that, I want to clarify a common newbie question. Can you lighten permanently? No, you cannot, at least yet. Once you reach your desired color, you have to maintain (which will be covered in the maintenance section). There are certain products like monobenzone and certain procedures like cryotherapy or laser treatments which can work together to provide near-permanent results (minus some recurring recalcitrant hyperpigmentation from migrating follicular / reserve melanocytes), but those are not for you unless you have systemic vitiligo. Talk to your dermatologist about it as monobenzone is beyond the scope of this newbie guide.


“Natural” vs. “Non-natural/Unnatural” Lightening Routes

Have you ever wondered why there are so many different “shades” or skin colors out there? Just look at the variance:

Image



Amazing, isn’t it?

Men and women trying to get darker can opt for a “natural” tan (by bombarding themselves with UV rays – however Fitzpatrick I skin types cannot tan via this method) or a “fake” tan (essentially coloring themselves). Since their natural skin color is very white to begin with, coloring the skin is a simple procedure, relatively safe, and non-permanent. (Technically, both methods are “natural” since everything is within the bounds of our universe …)

(Random side note: it’s interesting how many guys and girls with naturally fair skin are trying to darken up and those with dark skin are trying to lighten up – people run after things they don't have and often don’t appreciate what they already have. If this sounds like you, it’s time to read the introduction in post #1 again. If you’re lightening because you don’t like your natural color, then you should re-evaluate your decisions for lighter skin – chances are dark skin isn’t the reason that you’re unhappy. However, if you’ve got nothing against your natural color but you believe that you’ll look sexier with lighter skin, then you’re probably good to go, keep reading! Either way, if you really want lighter skin, this section will teach you how.)

In the skin lightening community, we have our own classification of a “natural” lightening route versus an “HQ/steroids/whatever other” route. Both routes can yield great results when done with care, and neither route is inherently “bad” as some people seem to believe. The “natural” route tends to stick with chemicals that come from biological sources (e.g. byproducts of fermentation processes, vitamins found in nature like vitamin C, etc.). The “unnatural” route involves chemicals that may not be directly derived from biological sources (e.g. hydroquinone, vitamin A derivatives like tretinoin, etc.). (Again, technically, both routes are “natural” since everything is within the bounds of our universe …) From what I’ve seen, there are also products which “color” your skin lighter, but it’s purely cosmetic and washes off, but we won’t cover those in this guide.

I'm part of a research lab, and the science behind everything – why things occur the way they do – is my favorite topic to talk about. When it comes to skin lightening, there are many factors to discuss, but I’ll keep it short for the sake of brevity. Regardless of whether you go the natural route or, I suppose, the “unnatural” route, all lightening products work in one or more of the following ways (if you don’t understand the below, it’s ok, it’s just here for your reference):



  1. Reduce the rate at which pigment is produced by inhibiting one or more enzymes in the melanogenesis pathway (or in some cases pre-melanogenic). Mainly, the conversion of tyrosine to melanin, often by inhibiting an enzyme called tyrosinase, the enzyme which catalyzes the first two steps in the melanogenesis pathway (the first step being the rate-limiting step).
  2. Reduce the rate at which pigment is transferred to surrounding keratinocytes (melanosome transfer).
  3. “Shift” the balance to produce more pheomelanin than eumelanin.
  4. Remove existing melanin from top skin layers (either by direct catabolic action and/or exfoliation methods).
  5. Target and kill melanocytes (i.e. complete and permanent albino-level depigmentation, e.g. monobenzone, which is not a topic of this guide).


I am really resisting the urge to talk about the really cool science behind all this, like melanocyte migration, proliferation, and differentiation (involving mediators like WNT glycoproteins, endothelin 3, etc.), the various enzymes involved (tyrosinase, tyrosine hydroxylase isoform I, etc.), receptors (e.g. MC1-R), fascinating diseases involving these various processes and their pathogenesis, regulation and whatnot, but alas I promised my friend that I wouldn’t bore her to sleep, so I’ll resist the temptation
Image


So instead, I’ll keep it brief and just outline several popular lightening ingredients (“drugs”) that target one or more of the above. These are tried and tested ingredients that are extremely popular in the skin lightening community, some backed by several decades of research and clinical trials.


The Various Skin Lightening Agents

I’ll classify each chemical based on three factors: 1) the amount of research that exists on it, 2) how effective it is, and 3) user experiences. You can choose any chemical (or a mix thereof) of lightening agents that you want in your lightening journey and find products in the market that contain those ingredients. (Or, you can read my DIY tutorial in the later sections to save yourself money and make them at home.)

I’d like to make a special point about layering, or applying multiple products one on top of another. You should wait at least a few minutes for the product to dry before applying the next product (e.g. 5-10 minutes). You should also be really careful what you layer. Applying a million different products will not always yield better results – in fact you're more than likely to screw up the concentrations of the active ingredients and get nowhere with your journey. Resist the urge to be a product junkie and focus on the science behind it all. Also, when you layer, some people think that serums go first and lotions next then gels or creams or whatever – no! You need to be aware of the main underlying principle behind all this, and that is drug delivery. Your lightening products need to cross the protective barrier and enter the basal layer where your melanocytes are. In other words, that means you need to maximize drug penetration. This is why you are going on an exfoliation regimen in the previous step, and also why some people apply creams or oils last for limited occlusion, which in layman's terms basically means covering the skin with some material or changing the vehicle and/or drug to help force / drive the drug deeper into your skin to improve topical and transdermal bioavailability. So, what you need to get out of this giant paragraph is that you need to be mindful what you layer and the order you put them on. In many cases, your exfoliating lotions would go first before your lightening cream. However, if it was an exfoliating lotion and a lighteningserum, the lotion would actually go first (instead of the serum), as the lotion may improve your serum’s efficacy. If both the exfoliating and lightening agents were lotions, the exfoliating lotion goes first. It's all about drug delivery. If, for whatever reason, you're using products where the exfoliating lotion actually impairs the lightening serum, then the serum goes first, but in my experience this hasn't been the case. Get it?

On a related note, you shouldn't use any makeup containing metal ions like copper, iron, or aluminum while using lightening products, as some of the lighteners function as chelators. Check all of your products, including makeup and even sunblock (especially if it's tinted) and ensure that they don't have too many metal constituents (no iron oxides, for example).

Without further ado…
 
#9 ·
Hydroquinone (HQ)

Route according to general public: non-natural. Legend has it that it was discovered in the 1800s when individuals exposed to it during photographic development developed patches of hypopigmented skin (leukoderma). Hydroquinone is also found in the coffee that you drink and in some fruits like bearberries and pears, often in the beta-D-glucopyranoside conjugate form (aka arbutin, which we’ll cover separately later).

Research / clinical data: A wealth of research exists on this ingredient.

User experiences: Many users report significant lightening. However, some users develop skin irritation and dermatitis, which can be countered with a mild corticosteroid (this is one of those exceptions to steroids that I was talking about, but note that it is a weaker steroid like dexamethasone; we'll cover all that in the steroids section). In extremely rare cases (less than 30 documented cases in the U.S. in over 50 years), some users have developed exogenous ochronosis, which led to wide-spread misconceptions and suspicion about the safety of the drug. This contributed to the ban on hydroquinone in the European Union and led to the U.S. FDA to propose a ban. However, most dermatologists agree that hydroquinone is safe when used as directed (see this paper for example). Hydroquinone is still available in the U.S. over the counter and available online worldwide.

Description: HQ is widely known as the gold standard and a staple of skin lightening. Extremely well researched, prescribed by dermatologists for over 50 years, with many clinical trials and thousands of documented cases. Hydroquinone is available over the counter in the United States in strengths up to 3% and by prescription in strengths of 4% or more (technically, 3% or more is supposed to be prescription only). But, given the nature of our free market society, you can get much greater concentrations online without a prescription. The other thing to note is that hydroquinone tends to give a “high yellow” look. If your goal is a pale white look, look at kojic acid below, but going on hydroquinone initially can dramatically speed up your results, as kojic acid can be quite a bit “slower” based on anecdotal evidence.

How to use it:
Get yourself a cream with at least a 3% hydroquinone concentration. At lower concentrations, HQ can help fade a permatan. At higher concentrations (5% to 6%), HQ can lighten significantly. Depending on your lightening goals, you decide what you want, but be aware that higher concentrations can cause redness / dermatitis. A weak steroid may help in resolving the redness (like low concentration dexamethasone), but ensure that it’s not a potent or superpotent class steroid (if it contains e.g. clobetasol propionate or betamethasone dipropionate, throw the product away unless you're working directly with your dermatologist; see the steroids section for more info). All those steroids sound similar, so be sure to read the steroids section. Also, look up reviews for whatever hydroquinone product you want to try on SCT! That's what we're here for. Your hydroquinone product may also contain an exfoliant like tretinoin (which comes in brands like Retin-A). See the products post for a full list of products. To get started with hydroquinone, wait at least 5-10 minutes after applying your exfoliating lotion (if you're exfoliating that day) before applying your HQ cream. If your cream includes an exfoliating agent, it's not necessary to use a separate exfoliating lotion. Don't know if yours has one? Ask on this thread! Anyway, mark your calendars when you start using hydroquinone because you should only use it for 4-6 months, and then switch to a non-HQ lightener like kojic acid for another 4-6 months before you switch onto HQ again. This is because your body, for whatever currently unknown reason, will build a resistance to the drug, where the drug becomes less and less effective until it doesn't work at all (in most cases permanently). Cycling the HQ will help you use it for longer before you too become immune to its effects. Individuals who have been lightening for any significant amount of time will often tell you how great their HQ products used to work; it no longer works on them because they've become immune to it either by using it for too long or going through many cycles. Don't worry, though, other great lighteners like kojic acid do not seem to have this problem! (We still don't know exactly why this happens; finding out the reasons for drug resistance is ongoing research.) Anyway, apply your HQ cream twice a day, morning and night, even if it contains an exfoliating drug. Be sure to layer on sunblock (wait 5-10 minutes, preferably, after putting on the HQ cream before layering on the sunblock). Use it everyday. Take a day or two off per week to skin build, but I've found that consistency really matters. Personally I wouldn't take more than a day or (at most) two days off from a HQ lightener. Unless you're consistent, you'll have terrible results. Some people tend to break out terribly and develop pimples and whatnot when using HQ; sometimes, this is due to other ingredients in the cream (not necessarily the HQ) so be sure to try a different brand before you decide that HQ is not for you. You can also combine HQ with another lightener like kojic acid below, but you have to ensure that you don't mess up the concentration. Just be sure not to use glutathione (covered later) while using HQ. Hydroquinone works partly through cytotoxic mechanisms, and glutathione counters the effects of HQ by functioning as an antioxidant.

Next up… kojic acid
Image
 
#10 ·
Kojic Acid (KA)

Route according to general public: natural. The name “kojic acid” comes from the name “koji,” which is Japanese for cultures (biological cultures), and it is often associated with a fungus called aspergillus oryzae, often found growing on steamed rice. Kojic acid is also a byproduct of malt rice fermentation (a process of making... well… ever tried “sake,” a Japanese wine?)

Research / clinical data: 4/5 stars. If you want to learn more about the history of kojic acid, here is a good place to start. While there are many studies done on kojic acid (like this one, which by the way considered skin lightening an aesthetically “negative” effect and thus suggested that KA be no more than 1%, but we WANT higher concentrations for our purposes because that’s an aesthetically positive effect for us, yes?), the number of clinical studies are limited.

Description: According to anecdotal evidence, while hydroquinone appears to give a “high yellow” color to your skin, kojic acid seems to give a “pale white” color. You can cycle in kojic acid during your hydroquinone off-cycle, and when you decide to stop hydroquinone altogether (or, if you prefer, never to use HQ at all), kojic acid is an excellent skin lightening agent. In some people, high concentrations of kojic acid (greater than 4%) appears to have a paradoxical “dark phase” before significant lightening is seen (according to several reports on the forums) – in other words, individuals using a high concentration KA solution sometimes may get slightly darker before getting lighter. As far as I can tell, the reasons for which have not yet been studied or perhaps even clinically validated, but if a “dark phase” is true, then it may be a result of increased sensitization of the skin combined with inadequate photoprotection (sunblock, clothing, etc.), but that is mere supposition at best and the underlying reasons are still nebulous. However, the “dark phase” usually subsides after a certain time period with consistent use of the lightening product. So, how does KA work? You may often hear about kojic acid as an antioxidant and copper chelator; it works as a bifunctional slow-binding inhibitor of catecholase activity: it inhibits the polyphenoloxidase oxidation of L-tyrosine and facilitates in the removal of certain quinones to prevent melanization. While it doesn’t seem to have the same level of potency of hydroquinone, it can with consistency result in significant efficacious lightening. Did I mention how important sunblock is while you’re on KA and/or HQ?

How to use it: Get yourself a lotion or cream with at least 4% kojic acid. A 1% to 3% solution appears to have mild fading effects, but for any significant skin lightening to be seen, opt for 4% or greater. Be aware that kojic acid has significant skin sensitizing potential; some users may develop contact dermatitis (including redness and sensitivity) that resolves after temporarily discontinuing kojic acid. If 4% or greater is too harsh for your skin, test out a milder concentration (2-3%), and if that is also too harsh, try a different lightening agent such as ascorbic acid, arbutin, niacinamide etc. (all of which we’ll cover in this guide). Apply your cream or lotion twice a day, every day (minus 1-2 skin building days). You cannot slack off while on kojic acid or YOU WON’T SEE RESULTS. You cannot use skin-building days as an excuse for not using following your regimen. Skin build when you want to but remember that consistency is key with this ingredient. Twice a day, every day. Sunblock. If it’s an “exfoliation night,” and your skin can’t handle an additional acid on top of lactic acid or whatever you’re using, you can get away with not using kojic acid for that night (you should still be using it in that morning however). Did I mention sunblock? A lot of people who use kojic acid for lightening don’t follow their regimen strictly and wonder why they aren’t seeing results and sporadically switch products. That’s like a hamster on a wheel. BE CONSISTENT. Most importantly, have patience. Kojic acid does not remove existing melanin from your skin – it reduces the rate at which new melanin is formed. That means you may not see any results for 1-3 months. If you’re consistent and you’re SAPing like there’s no tomorrow and you’ve got a legitimate product (not some counterfeit), you will see results. Thankfully, unlike hydroquinone, kojic acid does not seem to have a resistance problem as far as we know (in one study, participants had used 2.5% KA twice a day every day for 9.5 months), so you can continue to use it without having to worry about cycling. It’s also great for those maintaining their desired shade once they reach it (see Maintenance section later). The most important thing about KA is that you have to be very methodical and consistent (and sunblock is an absolute must). You'll see how to put together your exfoliation and lightening steps in the regimen section of this guide.

Next up, vitamin C (ascorbic acid).
 
#122 ·
@arrow I'm really interested in what you have to say about maintenance. I have seen many people revert back to their old skin tone and I wonder why that happens. So long as you maintain SAP shouldn't you be able to maintain your results? For example for myself I had a permatan on my face that is going away. So long as I use SAP shouldn't I be OK? Or do I always have to use lighteners?
 
#77 ·
#21 ·
the thread is amazing @arrow but i have a question about sap, when you said about sitting in front of wide open, curtains off window, did you meant sunlight coming directly in through glasses/window? In my house we usually let natural light come in during day, so all the windows are wide open without glasses though no sunlight comes directly but only natural light.
 
#22 ·
@salmuzeey @moon maiden @gymrat @lightboy @kajal @PinotNoir @ayr Thanks. Glad it helps :)


@ayr The ambient light shouldn't be of too much concern. UV rays are the most important extrinsic factor in melanogenesis regulation. It's the main stimulus for induced pigmentation ("tanning"). Induced pigmentation comes in two types:

1. "Immediate" which appears a few minutes after (mainly) UVA exposure and does not always increase melanin synthesis (instead the oxidation of existing melanin and redistribution of melanosomes).


2. "Delayed" which occurs a few days after exposure due to (mainly) UVB and increases the level of epidermal melanin synthesis, particularly eumelanin.


Glass will block UVB efficiently but not does not block UVA. In most cases, the ambient light shouldn't be much of a concern unless you are directly by the window most of the time. If you've ever wondered why some people have freckles on one side of their face more than the other, it's because UVA hits them on one side of the face much longer while they drive to work.
 
#25 ·
Glad it helped @Casperskitten :)

Ooohh question!

I know there's been research saying that gluta will counteract hq or protect melanocytes. You mentioned because its an anti oxidant.

What about vitamin C and Grape seed extract? Those are antioxidants as well.

@lightboy I would assume that some antioxidants like vitamin C (ascorbic acid) can indeed reduce the efficacy but perhaps not to the same extent. Studies like this one suggest that ascorbic acid can scavenge semiquinone radicals, although it's unclear just how much it affects skin lightening. Some formulations in the market will combine ascorbic acid and hydroquinone anyway. It's hard to tell whether this will have a significant influence, as vitamin C will also chelate copper and not just scavenge semiquinone radicals.

Many of the well-known depigmenting agents like hydroquinone and 4-hydroxyanisole (mequinol) are actually melanocytotoxic chemicals which are oxidized in melanocytes to produce highly toxic intermediates which are responsible for the destruction of pigment cells. However, cells can protect themselves against cytotoxic agents with intracellular glutathione (GSH) via the detoxification enzyme glutathione S-transferase (GST), which conjugates the toxic species to glutathione. However, certain compounds like cystamine and tretinoin can inhibit the activity of GST to improve HQ efficacy, e.g. all-trans-retinoic acid (tretinoin) serves as a potent inhibitor of mammalian GSTs, making cells more susceptible to the cytotoxic effect of HQ.

Whether the added benefit of vitamin C's antioxidant and lightening properties can account for the reduced efficacy of hydroquinone is hard to tell. There's not enough research involving the two, but it does appear to have some sort of effect at first glance.

I wouldn't use a vitamin C serum while on hydroquinone, but my opinion on this may change as I learn more about its interactions. Maybe it's positive or maybe it's negative, we don't know for sure yet as far as I've read.
 
#24 ·
Ooohh question!

I know there's been research saying that gluta will counteract hq or protect melanocytes. You mentioned because its an anti oxidant.

What about vitamin C and Grape seed extract? Those are antioxidants as well.
 
#26 ·
Oh OK hmm I guess I'll stop taking my grape seed extract supplement when I start HQ again.
 
#29 ·
If I were to guess, it does seem that grape seed extract will also scavenge quinone radicals by HQ. There's no research done that I could find comparing the interaction of the two, but looking at the mechanism of avacado proanthocyanidins, it may be speculated that grape seed extract proanthocyanidins may behave similarly, as somewhat explored in this study. Neither grape seed extract nor vitamin C should have an effect on the HQ itself -- it's the toxic semiquinone and quinone oxidation products that they may affect. Thus, the HQ should still function as a competitive alternative substrate of tyrosinase, but its melanocytotoxic ability may be reduced. Since competitive inhibition is only a part of HQ's mechanism of action, I would personally avoid any product that may interfere with its complete action -- but one should also weigh / consider the copper chelating effects of vitamin c, kojic acid, etc. in mind. There are a lot of people using e.g. both vitamin C and HQ, but how well they fare with lightening in comparison to those who use only HQ is something that needs to be researched more.
@lightboy Have you been using grape seed extract or vitamin C while on HQ before? How was the lightening?


Can you change the title to The GOAT Beginners Guide to Skin Lightening because this really is the greatest of all time! :marchmellow:
@slayanna Haha, thank you :) I'm glad it helped you.

@arrow.. Just finished reading this... great thread... Thanks for taking the time to write this.... The in depth detail is what I need to stay on track..
@John-Dave Thanks, and I'm glad it's helping you keep on track :)
 
#27 ·
Can you change the title to The GOAT Beginners Guide to Skin Lightening because this really is the greatest of all time! :marchmellow: